Beside the seaside…beside the sea

Yes we do love to be beside the seaside, especially when we are lucky enough to move from mist and drizzle to sunbathing weather in the course of 24 hours and changing coasts. The New England Bay site is one of our favourites, but even more so on a blue skies day. Considering we are 2 hours off from the nearest motorway at Gretna Green it is surprisingly busy on site being late September. We weren’t able to pitch on the front row nearest the sea, but going one level back does give a cracking good panorama of the whole bay from the front window so we are happy with that.

We popped down to the further point South West in Scotland this morning, the lighthouse at the Mull of Galloway. From there we could clearly sea the Isle of Man and Northern Ireland and in the other direction a stunning view right around Luce Bay to Burrow Head. The exhibition area was open but we have been before so made do with a wander around the outside and a walk over to the RSPB information hut, keeping well away from the cliff edges.

We have climbed the lighthouse steps before, so also decided against a repeat performance of that, instead we plumped for coffee in the cafe and half an hour looking at the views before heading back through Drummore, stopping for a look at one of the many First and Last post offices we have come across in Scotland over the years.

Here despite a fair few leaving this morning the site is steadily filling up again with a constant stream of arrivals all afternoon. It’s also absolutely heaving with rabbits, they are everywhere you look and do not seem that bothered by humans as they just shift along a foot or two if you walk anywhere near.

We have been for our dip in the sea, to ankle level only but to be fair its warmer than expected. We whiled away the rest of the afternoon sat in the sun with the newspapers after kite flying was called off due to insufficient Scottish sea breezes.

This brings another tour of Scotland to an end. We will be sad to leave as always but now have a fairly hefty list of jobs that need doing on the van before we head off in November, so we probably should start getting organised and stop wandering off on holidays.

The Kelpies – Scotlands new icons?

Having left behind the mist of Aberdeen we headed down the coast and spent the night at the CC site at Glenrothes. A nicest enough site, a bit odd though to have blocks of flats looking down on the pitches at the back, we moved round to the side and had a quiet night with the exception of rain bouncing down through the trees. We couldn’t decided on whether to visit Stirling or head a bit further South for the next couple of days. Whilst scanning Google for what was new to see we came across Helix Park and the Kelpies sculptures by Andy Scott.  It meant driving down to Falkirk but we decided we may as well move South as these sculptures are something I desperately wanted to see, so we headed off first thing and were on Helix Park by 10am.

Very kind man on the carpark opened the barrier and waved us through to the coach park, as close as it gets to the entrance. As soon as we left the van and walked onto the canal bank they were there in all their stainless steel glory, looking over the new extension to the Forth & Clyde Canal. Nothing can prepare you for the sheer scale of these sculptures – both are 100 ft high and they look as if water is running down them (it isn’t its the way the steel is cast).

They are in a word awesome, the sheer scale and beauty is hard to capture in a photo, there is a turning circle between them for canal boats and it looks tiny but full sized boats were turning whilst we were there. Named Duke and Baron after the Clydesdale horses that were the models you can walk right up to them and we paid an extra £5 to go inside Duke – nearly as amazing to be inside as outside.

Inside a Kelpie

The tour guide told extensive tales of the mythology of the Kelpie in Scotland and to be fair had a good knowledge of the creation and building of both the canals, the recent canal extension and the horses heads themselves.

Duke & Baron with a canal boat between

This surely will become an iconic image of Scotland. You drive past them on the M9, literally a couple of hundred yards from the road but its so worth going round to see them up close. We didn’t stay long enough to visit the Helix Park properly but with over 350 hectares of parkland, wetland, lakes and newly planted woodlands its somewhere to spend a day at least and its on our list to visit in more detail next time we are here. We can honestly say this is one of the, if not the, most incredible thing we have been lucky enough to visit in the UK. And, on our regular theme of budgets – this is free to visit, no parking charges, no charge to go right up to the sculptures (you only pay to go inside).

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Leaving the Kelpies we decided to head a bit South for the evening, as we headed down the motorway the idea of New England Bay came upon us. We rang and they had space so we pulled over, reset the Sat Nav (realised then it was over 100 miles!) and headed South West. A quick detour to Stranraer for supplies and we are now settled overlooking the sea at the Mull of Galloway. This will be our last stop before we head home so here for a couple of days. The sun is out, the sea is blue and as the song goes there is nothing there to spoil our view. As holidays go we can always rely on Scotland to bring out the most amazing scenery and places to visit, its going to be a hard act to follow but of course we will be aiming high 🙂

Stonehaven and Furryboots City

Tuesday morning we decided a proper look around Nairn was called for. Drove down to the golf course and found a totally empty car park next to the beach. We walked through Fishertown which is between the sea and the main town, a maze of old fishing cottages all built with the gable ends of each terrace facing the sea. The main town is over the main A96, what to us is a typical Scottish town with a few of the High Street ‘names’ but more independant shops.

We walked back via the harbour, stopping off to coffee and scones at the Basil Harbour Cafe, very quaint and very small, a bit like a hole in the wall with lots of tables tucked in. From there we had a wander down the beach, now we get why its classed as a holiday resort – beautiful white sand for miles.

Having agreed to head for Stonehaven we decided on a route not previously travelled by us. Headed straight down to Grantown on Spey and from there took the A939 through Tomintoul and onwards to Ballater. Yet another amazing road discovery for us, made even better by the total lack of traffic – we saw a handful of cars all the way over. Spectacular views over the mountains and only the one town in miles of absolute wilderness. We pulled over at the Lecht Ski Area for lunch, the mist rolled in and there was only one other car there, sure it would be amazing in the season but a bleak place today. As we were nearing Ballater we came across a very splendid hump back bridge at The Bridge of Gairn, at only 6 metres we cleared it easily, if slowly. Worth parking up for a walk back and a few photos.

Bridge of Gairn

Stonehaven is a small and quiet little town just 13 miles outside Aberdeen. The CC took over the former corporation site just over a year ago and totally revamped it. Now its all shiney and sparkly new, fabulous facilities block, decent size hard standing and just a few steps away from the beach. The outdoor lido pool is next door to the site, its just closed down for the year. Shame as they heat the sea water to 29 degrees from April onwards so we were hoping for a dip. Instead we walked along the bay to the harbour. There is a promenade and then a boardwalk all the way round, very popular with a few cafes along the way to stop for a break. The harbour itself is on the sheltered side, a few pubs and a cafe but nothing much else to see there. As the Scottish mist was falling we decided against the 2 miles walk up the hill to the castle, will save that for another visit.

Stonehaven Harbour

As we walked back through town we came across The Carron Fish Bar – home of the world famous deep fried Mars Bar (the full story of how it was invented, first fried and then made a worldwide phenomenon is on the wall).

Of course we had one – would have been rude not to!! so its something we have experienced, it wasnt as bad as we imagined but we don’t feel the need to eat another one anytime soon. Even though its been a very grey and misty couple of days here the promenade is always really busy. There are cars parked all the way along and people queining in the chip shops and the ice-cream shop, then sitting in there cars eating their spoils before walking it off on the promenade.

Today we took a bus into Aberdeen, aka Furryboots city, a bargain £5.60 each return on a posh bus with leather seats and all. The city was busy but certainly not heaving, with it being referendum day we thought there would be campaigners everywhere but we only saw one little stand for “Yes” giving out badges. We popped to the Tourist Info and picked up a map and set off to explore a few sites in New Town. First stop Belmont Street for a coffee and early lunch, then a wander down to Marischal College, a gothic building that looks hundreds of years old from a distance but as you get closer looks quite new (have read up and built in 1835, so they just must keep it really clean and polished on the outside). Next it was the Toolbooth and old Gaol on Union Street, to be fair it was free but there wasn’t that much to see, and the stone spiral steps were terrifying. We both loved the wide main streets of the city and the fact the buildinga were not too high, gives the city a lovely light feeling even on a grey day.

We walked up King Street towards the University to see the Old Town (as the New Town has been there since the 12^th century, the Old Town must be really old?). It was slightly further than we thought so when we got there we managed half an hour around the University buildings and cobbled streets. There are plenty of alleyways (wynds) to explore and the university buildings themselves are well worth a look around. The Kings Museum building is worth the walk alone.

Kings Museum -Old Town Aberdeen

With it being freshers week it was fairly busy everywhere so we decided on a bus back to the New Town for a half an hour browse around the shops before we headed back to Stonehaven, where we resisted the temptation of more deep fried confectionary.

Fort George -Ardersier

Our destination for today was Inverness, the road hugged the South side of the loch most of the way up with great views, especially over to Castle Urquhart. When we arrived on the outskirts of Inverness we started to change our mind about visiting – no park and ride, nowhere that looked good to leave the van and it was beginning to drizzle. Walking round town in the wet was not the most appealing thought so a quick check of the maps to look for something else to close by came up with a couple of new options.

So with very little debate we decided Fort George was a much better option and headed up the coast. On arrival first impression was quite good, we had seen the fort a few years previously from the Black Isle and knew what the outside looked like so we prepared for a fort that was not a pile of old ruins, we were not aware that it was an active military base or just how well preserved it is. Parking up outside we headed for the ticket booth and were pleasantly surprise at good entry prices of less than £9 each, including an audio guide.

As soon as we walked over the Principal Bridge we were totally awestruck. This is a fort like no other we have visited or heard of. It covers over 42 acres (which is 40 football pitches they tell us), The ramparts around the fort are just over a mile in length and you can walk around them, incredible views over the Moray Firth and back towards Inverness.  All of the buildings are in fairly pristine condition and its kept in a way that only the army keep things – hardly a blade of grass out of place.

All of the buildings are in use, some by Historic Scotland but the majority by the Black Watch being the regiment currently stationed there. Fort George is known as  the finest example of 18th-century military engineering in the British Isles. The building of the garrison was started in the aftermath of the Battle of Culloden (1746) and took over 20 years to complete, it has never been attacked and looks pretty much as it did when it was completed, this has to be another of Scotland’s finest kept secrets, enough to see to spend 2 or 3 hours there and then some more time on the coast itself.

Principal Bridge

There are a few changes of course, the mess room has a large Costa Coffee franchise complete with 5 ft coffee cup outside the door, there are a couple of gift shops and one of the former Governor’s houses has been converted to a Regimental museum of the Highland Regiments. This itself was worth the entry fee, a good hour to walk round and see the history of the regiments that make up the current Highland Regiment, including a room where you can dress up in the Highlanders uniforms (of course we did!!).

 

From there it was just a quick hop along the coast to Nairn, a lovely old fishing village now better known as a seaside resort. We parked up on the harbour for a bit of late lunch and watched the mist rolling in, we sat for a while on dolphin watch but they must have been well hidden in the very low cloud. We are now at our overnight site, the C&CC just outside Nairn. Its a forest site set amongst the trees but just off the main A9, very busy with campervans and motorhomes, possibly due to them offering a very good rate at the moment compared to the other club sites in the area.

Lochs and Glens

Saturday morning we were woken early to the sound of many hobbling walkers rounding up their kit and tents and setting off on the Highland Way. The cloud was low so the view was well hidden which put paid to plans to go up on the chairlift 🙂 . On the downside we had a midge squatter in the van last night – I have bites all over my face and neck, from tomorrow its marmite for breakfast as they apparently don’t like the taste it leaves in your blood. We have slathered on Avon So Soft which we are forever hearing is the ‘repellent of choice of the army’, well its done nothing for us, maybe it needs khaki to get it to work. We decided to up and away in search of better views, a breeze to blow away the midges and less cloud. As soon as we got down to Ballachulish the sun was shinning on Loch Leven and we headed for the mecca of all campervans and motorhomes in the Highlands – Fort William. True to form it was swarming with every size and shape of motorhome, stocking up with provisions at Morrisons. We always feel welcome there, carparks set aside for motorhomes and no height barriers on the loch carparks. Sadly the town itself is not the most scenic we have seen so as soon as we had stocked up we headed off to search out some new tourist hotspots.

Just 7 miles outside of town is the Nevis Range complex and having never been before we decided to investigate. First impressions were good, enormus carpark, plenty of space to park and its free (they ask for a donation for parking). The only mountain gondola in the UK is here, taking you up Aonach Mor on the Nevis Range. There were literally hundreds on mountain bikers taking their bikes up hooked on the outside of the gondolas, the downhill from the top is the only World Cup Downhill course for mountain bikes in the UK, love the warnings on the description “deisgned to be ridden downwards” God alone knows who the hell could ride it the other way, 2.8 km and they come down it quicker than the gondola. Anyway, back to the gondola and my thought that I could conquer the fear of being suspended on a bit of wire up a mountain. We looked at the gondolas and to be honest they look old and not very safe to my untrained eye. However, as many very old people off a coach trip were clambering on I decided I would have a go – agreeing if it was too bad we would walk the 500 metres down! All starts off fine, then it leaves the hut and its very, very high. Just as I find my height skills it stops! It really does stop, every few minutes for 20-30 seconds where it just sways over the drops, terrifying, this is apparantly to allow them to load and unload supplies. Arrival at the top makes it worth the sheer terror as even in the low cloud the views are awesome. From the top of the gondola there are several chair lifts that go higher into the mountains (luckily none of these were running today).

There is a marked walk to Sgurr Finnisg-aig viewpoint which at 2175 feet gives views for miles, its an easy climb and really worth doing to see the scale of the mountains ranges. Back over at the gondola is a really popular mountain restaurant, the Snowgoose, we opted to go out on the balcony and watch the mountain bikers starting their descents, before taking the gondola back down to the carpark and back into the sunshine.

We followed the Great Glen Way on our way up to Loch Ness, stopping for a few minutes at the Commando memorial at Spean Bridge. We have passed this several times on our trips but never stopped before, a very fitting monument to the commandos that gave their lives in World War II, always more than a little sobering to pause and remember how lucky we are to tour around at will due to people giving their tomorrows on our behalf.

Final part of our trip for the day was to head for the new Camping and Carvavan Club site on Loch Ness. We chose this site as its on the South side on the Loch and we have never visited that side of the loch before. We drove along Loch Lochy which could not have looked more amazing than it did with the sun shinning on the still waters and were both saying how the views could not get any better. Of course then they did, we took the B862 which has to be one of the unsung heros of Scottish roads with a view. The road climbs high into the mountains with peak after peak stretching out in front of you. We stopped at Suidhe viewpoint to take photos (which never do justice) and both voted this one of the most scenic roads we had driven in Scotland.

 

From there it was a slightly twisting and turning road down to Foyers where our campsite awaited for the next few days, settled in, currently midge free and if we crane our necks we can just see Loch Ness from the pitch :).

Sunday there is a little more breeze and its feels a lot fresher. A two minute walk from the pitch and we are lucky enough to have a small beach and stunning loch views in either direction. There are several boats on the loch but its very quiet and peaceful. We took a walk along a footpath beside the loch which gradually climbed into the forest and took us high above the water through the trees. There are a fair few canoeists on the loch and we passed a canoe stop point where they can camp, light a fire and even use the log cabin compost toilet – all mod cons on the loch side these days. This side of the water is by far more quiet than the north, very little in the way of tourist attractions, just the pebble beaches, the water and the views – that’s all it needs to be a perfect place to visit (no sign of the Monster yet, but we live in hope of a glimpse this evening!!)

 

It’s Scotland time

Time for our annual pilgrimage up to Scotland, being used as our ‘shakedown’ trip to check out everything in the van before we head off to Europe in November. We have the awning back on the roof now in full working order, so hoping for some good weather to try it out.

A fantasticly quiet run up the M6 and onto the M74 without a delay in sight. It was all going far too well, so we decided to call it quits whilst we were ahead and stop overnight at Moffat C&CC. Pulled onto the site to be told they are totally full – a weekday in September but the good weather was bringing in unexpected high numbers of campers, so that was us out of luck. Wardens told us that Strathclyde CC site was an hour and a half away – not sure which route they use, it was 40 minutes straight up the motorway. Luckily plenty of space and a really lovely site less than a mile from the junction. We stayed here before as a good base to visit Glasgow abut this time it was just a convenient stop to get some sleep, the motoroway traffic did not bother me one bit, Iain was awake most of the night with it!

We set off early on this morning for Loch Lomond, slight navigator error as I took us through the centre of Glasgow, whereas the new motoroway now avoids the city centre traffic. However extremely thick fog meant you couldnt see a thing where we were anyway, Iain didn’t know we were in the middle of the city as the visibility was less than 100 yards in places, I should have kept quiet and he would never have known we weren’t on the right road. We crossed the Erskine Bridge and things were looking a little brighter but Loch Lomond was shrouded in a very low mist. We parked up at the Duck Bay Marina but after 10 minutes gave it up as pointless as the view was pretty much nothing. As we headed North and higher up towards Crianlarich the sun started breaking through and at we turned past the Bridge of Orchy Glencoe was beckoning in blue skies and just the odd wisp of mist around the mountain tops. By the viewpoint there was definite sunshine and we joined the throng of holiday makers taking snaps down the glen.

We are overnighting at the Glencoe Ski centre as they now have motorhome pitches outside the cafe, just below the chair lifts. There are only 2 motorhomes here but the log cabins are all occupied by walkers doing the Highland Way. The pitches are really just gravel parking spaces but you get an electric hookup, use of the loos in the cafe and there are some showers at the top of the carpark for £1. The best bit though is the views – we are looking down the Glen and far enough up away from the road that you cannot hear any road noise, this has to be one of the best views from our campervan we have had.

This afternoon we decided to join the many and took a walk on the Highland Way between the Ski Centre and the Bridge of Orchy. The path here is an old drovers track so easy to follow and well maintained. We were amazed at the numbers of people out in the middle of nowhere doing the walk. The majority walk the 97 miles from South to North, we were walking in the opposite direction and passed at least 30 walkers in under 2 miles. It is easy to see the attraction, mile after mile of incredible scenery through some of the most remote places in the country. We managed just over 4 miles and called it a day. The walking itself wasn’t too bad, however 22 degrees in Scotland walking in mountains is wrong in so many ways, the main one being the national animal of the Scots – the midge.

Back at camp and sitting a bit too smugly watching walkers hobble along to the cafe for some much needed refreshments before they are taken off by minibus to their guesthouses or they pitch their tents. The cafe here does a full cooked breakfast so we plan to sample that in the morning, then if the weather is clear we are going on the chairlift to the top of the mountain to experience the view of the whole range, from there its off to Loch Ness to do some monster spotting for a few days.

South bound

Well no eagles seen sadly, the cloud cover was low this morning so we thought we would move on. Well where better in low cloud and mist than Glen Coe! To be fair even in crap weather it is still fairly awesome. The mist just adds to the feeling of being a million miles from anywhere.

We stopped off at the Glencoe Ski Centre for a toast and coffee break. Half the car park from cordoned off awaiting a broken down army search and rescue helicopter just down the road being airlifted to the carpark by Chinook. Sounded worth waiting for but after a while nothing was happening so we headed on our way.

The long drive down from Crianlarich was fairly dull and misty, broken by a delay at the north end of Loch Lomond where the road appears to have collapsed into the loch on one side so its one lane only. As always it takes forever to drive down the loch but the views are worth it. At the bottom of the loch we stopped at Balloch to stretch our legs and wander round the shops. The campsite at Balloch wanted £26 for a night so we decided against staying as that is what we commonly call a ‘bloody rip’ off. We headed down over the Erskine Bridge and straight through Glasgow on the new motorway. South of the city we were starving so pulled into the services to make bacon butties and buy a couple of Costas.

The nearest campsites by now were Moffat or Ayr so we plumped for Moffat. We arrived at tea time and quite surprised to see a site so full but they squeezed us onto the back of the site. As its only 2 or 3 minutes from the town we walked in for a few bits and stopped off for a pint in the Star hotel.

For many years I have shared the poem ‘Skinny Ma Linnky long legs’ with Iain and he would not believe its exists other than in my imagination. Today I rest my case as we found these in a shop 🙂

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We’ve just cum doon frae the Isle of Skye

This morning it was time to drag ourselves away from Skye. The visit ended well as Iain got us a free night last night at the camp. The site electric had gone off in the morning – due to smoking electric boxes – and the electrician couldn’t get there until evening. Baxter Manweb man to the rescue who fixed it in 20 minutes and hence a very grateful campsite owner gave us the night for free.

We headed back over the Skye bridge to the mainland. Slight panic ensued when an engine warning light appeared – the icon was either a bomb or a light bulb. Quick check of the back lights showed it was the former. Iain did a change of bulb whilst I did a quick weekly shop and we were away.

Several miles later the driving one started cursing? Ah apparently our side locker door is still wide open and flapping in the wind since the bulb change! Luckily our possessions seem to be still with us – definitely lucky as most of our worldly goods are kept in there.

Time for a mid morning rests stop and we were at Eilean Donan castle so pulled in. We have stopped outside before but never been inside before. Iain treated us both to the tour – a big treat as he limits us to one castle per holiday and we visited one on Skye 2 days ago. This is without doubt worth the trip this far north alone Its called the most beautiful castle in Scotland and it really does deserve the name. The inside is just as lovely as outside with tartan carpets and each room dressed as it would be when the castle was restored in 1920. We spent an hour at the castle then our stomachs started calling so time to find somewhere to cook lunch.

We followed the road up Shiel Glen and stopped right on the top to make lunch. From there it was a stunning drive down to Invergarry and we stopped just past at Laggan Locks for coffee on the ‘The Eagle Pub – the only floating pub on the canal’. From the outside a real barge – inside an amazing little pub complete with real fire stove etc. Had a walk around the pontoons choosing a boat to cruise the lochs in next year, well maybe.

Straight through Fort William as it reminds us of a 1960’s prefab town and out to Glencoe. Now parked up on a C&CC site just up from the village and below Meal Moir. Warden tells us Golden Eagles fly around early evening so binoculars are at the ready.

 

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Miles travelled = zero

Today we did mostly ……

Skye tours

We must be exceptionally righteous, still in the north west of Scotland and still the sun is shinning down on us. Not that we are smug – well we are, so much so I insisted on wearing shorts today to prove that it was worth bringing summer clothes to the north in October.

Day started with a drive out to Waternish point on the north west of Skye. Beautiful views over to the Outer Hebrides and more craft shops and galleries than you can shake a stick at.  We made our way along aiming to be in the hamlet of Stein for lunch. Our previous visit here a few years ago ended  with an amazing fresh lunch at the Stein Inn. So, we had saved our pennies and were aiming for a big treat of lobster or fresh fish for lunch.  We ordered a coffee and sat outside in the sun, at which stage Iain heard to owner say no shellfish or fish for lunch as there is bloom on the loch 😦 – typical.

We drove round to Dunvegan and realised that in 10 days we had yet to visit a castle, so Dunvegan castle it was. The castle is home to the clan McLeod and the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland.  Inside was a self guided tour or a few of the public rooms and some of the servants quarters, then outside some amazing gardens including a walled gardens and a water gardens.  Lunch was courtesy of the castle tearooms, being that staple offered at every castle we visit – soup and a roll followed by a scone.

Stein – Waternish

Ok so moving on the highlight of the trip was calling – it was only time to visit the museum of the Giant Angus MacAskill, we drove along, there it was – and Iain did the usual of straight past and “did you really want to stop?”. Hmmm yes, so back we go and what an absolute blinder of a place, made more amazing by someone starting something with such a tenuous connection to the subject. The story of the Giant Angus MacAskill is true – however he has never, every been anywhere near Skye! The reason there is a museum here to him is the museum owner is a 15th cousin or something to the giant – who was born on the Hebrides and died in Canada. Well lets not let that little matter spoil a brilliant little tourist spot.

Poolewe

A tiny little croft house with a life sized statue of the giant and one of General Tom Thumb, some bits and pieces of Skye history and an enormous pair of hand knitted socks. The best £2 I have spent for a long time – just to take photos of Angus the  “true giant” – one without underlying medical conditions or notable deformities – who ever lived.

Me, The Giant Angus MacAskill and General Tom Thumb

Leaving the museum we spotted a lovely campsite just over the road.  Kinloch campsite is on a small headland out on Loch Dunvegan, looking down the loch towards the castle. There are quite a few campervans on here but no signs of the owners so we have pitched up and we are sure someone will come round for money sooner or later. So that is the end of our day so far, sat outside the van making the most of the sunshine with a good strong brandy coffee to ward off any loch breezes.

Poolewe

And, we have an internet connection for a change – so have included some photos from the last 10 days.

Dunvegan walled gardens

Stein Inn

Loch Snizort

Loch Carron

Plockton

Bridge over Cromarty Firth

Cromarty

St, Andrews – Clubhouse on the Old Course

Hamish MacBeth then Skye

Yesterday was time for our mid holiday cook-in. Haggis, black & white puddings, lorne and linkie sausages, mushrooms, eggs and toast. After eating that we pretty well flaked out. Late afternoon we managed to stroll up to Inverewe gardens for a coffee and then we found some energy and walked one of the marked trails in the hills behind the gardens. Other than that we were all stuffed out and spent most of the day reading the papers.

This morning we were away from Poolewe fairly handy and decided to take a route down Glen Carron as we haven’t used that road before. It runs alongside the railway, down to Stromeferry, yet more amazing views all the way, made better by another day of sunshine.

We took a detour at the end of the loch to Plockton. It belongs on a photo on a shortbread tin – totally twee and extremely worth negotiating the windy lanes to get to. Another in my list of places where tv series were filmed – this one was the setting for ‘Hamish MacBeth’. Parked up on the harbour and made lunch whilst watching the very many tourists walking the promenade. Slightly disappointed no reference to ”Hamish” but overall it would be very near the top of our ‘the villages most worth visiting in Scotland’ list. Several good restaurants, a few cafes and bars, two of three craft shops and of course a chipper selling local caught fish – it just lacks a campsite for us to stay at 😦

From Plockton its a spit and a jump down to the Kyle of Lochalsh. The bridge is truly awesome but somehow takes away the excitement of arriving on an island by boat. So over the bridge and a minute later we are on the Isle of Skye. The roads are really quiet here, probably as its Sunday. We drove nearly the length of the island to get to the campsite we wanted for tonight which is in the North at Loch Greshornish. There are several other campervans on site but everything is quiet and no road noise. We are looking over the loch and a seal is swimming a few yards off the edge of the water. All very tranquil and we are now settled in for the night ready to go exploring tomorrow.

Plockton harbour

Where Hamish McBeth does his posting

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East to West coast

About 10 minutes after posting the blog last night we spied movement in the sea outside the camper. Yes indeed a dolphin – followed by several others. They were close enough to see really well and ambled by to the other side of the bay. Fabulous to see them.

This morning we drove down to the point to see if we could see more dolphins but nothing to be seen, well except a couple of German’s with plastic garden chairs, knives in holsters, blankets and stockpiles of food setting up for a day of spotting – slightly crazy looking but to be fair they seemed happy enough.

We moved off and headed to Cromarty as its a peninsula we hadn’t previously visited. Little village with a couple of shops and many, many oil rigs on the firth looking sad and waiting to broken up. The mini car ferry to Nigg wasn’t running so we headed back down the north of the isle and crossed by the bridge to Dingwall. There we loaded up with supplies at Tesco and headed west.

Lunch stop was on the A835 heading towards Ullapool. We parked up at Loch Glascarnoch which is stunning. The sun was shinning down the loch and there was snow on the tops of the far mountains. We stayed for an hour and were joined by another campervan but other than that very few cars or people about.

From there we followed the road to Braemore junction, turning off just before Ullapool on the Gruinard Bay coastal route which an hour later brough us to Poolewe and we are now pitched up on site. A stunning view down the loch which will no doubt look somewhat different tomorrow as several ships from Joint Warrior are anchored in the loch. Iain has his radio in the van so am hoping he doesn’t manage to contact the fleet and get us involved!

Loch Glascarnoch

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Well camouflaged Scottish dolphins

We survived the storms and woke to bright blue skies :). The bad news being the minimum temperature for the day was forecast at 1 degree – brrrrr. Iain tested the chill as he needed to empty a certain receptacle early morning (too much information?) and confirmed it was freezing out.

The campsite is strangely placed on the beach with the public road running 10ft behind your pitch. Walking north along the beach its 10 minutes to the tiny village of Rosemarkie, so off we went for morning coffee. Not timed well as it was closed so back past the camper in the direction of Chanonry Point Lighthouse for some Dolphin Spotting. The path is called Dolphin Mile because its a mile long but there ends any connection with the name as not a dolphin to be seen. We stood on the point (with several other hardy souls) for half an hour and we saw a solitary seal. At this stage the rain came in from the north with the wind and we gave up and trudged back to the camper for some warming brandy coffees.

This afternoon the sun came out and it warmed up a bit. So we walked up to Fortrose village to find a cake shop (the walking is outweighing the cakes we hope – just:) ). Mission accomplished it was back to camper for cakes and spotting from the comfort of the van. As yet still not a dolphin seen – despite this being the ‘best place in the world for bottle nose dolphin spotting’. That may not be true but our pitch certainly has one of the best views we have ever found from a campsite, looking across the water at Fort George we could be in Morocco, well if it were several degrees warmer and we weren’t both in thermal long-johns of course.

Tomorrow we will give those little bottle nose faces one more chance to pop up, then we are heading into Inverness for supplies; from there its destination west coast in the general direction of the Isle of Skye.

View from the camper

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First snow in the Cairngorns

From the campsite we headed back through to the A9 then headed North. As we arrived at the ‘Welcome to the Highlands’ sign the highlands welcomed us with freezing rain.

A good run up despite the rain, Dalwhinnie Castle beckoned (Monarch of the Glen tv series) but Iain ‘missed’ the turn off, nothing to do with not wanting to walk round the loch in the rain though. As it was 40 miles to the next junction we let that one go for another visit.

We stopped at Aviemore for coffee and cake, Iain’s heart had a work out when it cost £8 for 2 coffees and 2 cakes! Absolutely freezing walking around and the first snow of the season had been settling an hour before we got there. Not east to park the camper in the village so we didn’t longer too long in case we got a ticket.

We moved on past Inverness to the Black Isle and found a caravan site right on the beach at Rosemarkie. We are surprised at how many campervans are on site, very popular probably because you can park up less that 20 ft from the sea. Its blowing a gale and the van is rockin’ going to be a blustery night me thinks. The area is meant to be brilliant for dolphin watching so we have binoculars at the ready. If not we can always watch the planes from the Nato exercises as most of the jets from Joint Warrior are flying from Lossiemouth which is just across the estuary from us.

So that’s us tucked up for the night and ticking off another of the weather forecast names of ‘Cromarty’ – fingers crossed it isn’t a weather warning tick 🙂

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Everywhere Kate went, we went

Destination for today St. Andrews which was only a few miles up the coast, however we followed Sat Nav to check out tonight’s campsite on the way and a little over an hour later we were parked up in one of our favourite towns in Scotland.

First stop was lunch out for a change ‘battered black pudding balls’ followed by burritos in a mexican grill bar! (yes very Scottish). Despite it being early in the week and October the town was really busy. Plenty of very expensive shops mixed in with high street names, pretty much every other building was a cafe, restaurant or wine bar. The buildings are fabulous, mostly 3 or 4 storey old stone and loads of little courtyards hidden up alleyways.

After lunch we walked down to the Old course and strolled over the first tee which is surprisingly crossed by a footpath. A little bit of an elitist place with all the benches marked with ‘members seating only’ and the gift shop offering free gifts if you spend £150 – somewhat out of our league.

Back into town and the cafe ‘where Kate met Wills, for coffee’ was clearly signposted but we chose Starbucks for a Spiced Pumpkin Latte – a little touch of heaven. Having exhausted the more expensive shops we headed out to see St. Andrews abbey and the castle. Both ruins but enough still there to see what monumental buildings they were.

Time to head to camp and we couldn’t resist ‘Prince George scones’ to take with us. So armed with two of the biggest scones ever we are now at tonight’s site. A farm 5 miles up in the hills above town. Glorious views for miles around very peaceful, plan to be up and away fairly handy tomorrow and head inland to the highlands.

Forth road bridge and beyond

Slept like a log last night despite being camped a couple of hundred metres from the M74, Iain on the other hand listened to the traffic all night. We were therefore up and away fairly handy and heading for the Forth Road bridge. As we crossed the bridge we saw people walking over and both said we have never walked over. So, as soon as we got to the other side we parked up in a hotel carpark and walked back to the bridge. Footpath was closed, typical, so we had to go down the steps, under the bridge and up the steps the other side before we could ‘walk the bridge’.  Amazing views over to the rail bridge.

A little windy as we walked across (I stayed dead in the middle of the path) but worth the views and it is fairly amazing being so high up and having views right down to the sea. We then went back to the van and drove down to the North Queensferry, under the rail bridge, to take some photos looking back up at the road bridge.

 

By now we were all bridged out so decided to head to the coast. First stop Burntisland, which wasn’t an island and had no signs on any burnings.  The beach is well known for being a sandy blue flag beach so we went down to see it,  but the tide was out and it was very like a muddy estuary from what we could see. We moved onto our next stop of West Wemyss for lunch. Tiny little village on the edge of the sea. Several of the buildings had a very Italian look and it gave the village an air of Port Meirion. We parked on the harbour and put the lunch on and settled back for an hour to read the papers and watch the sea. We finally shifted ourselves fora walk around the village before deciding it was time to head off and find somewhere to stay tonight.

Our previous trips to this part of Scotland have always found us struggling to find a campsite we like. This time proved no different. We saw a couple of sites but they were enormous and full of statics or right on the side of the road, neither type appeals so we kept on driving.  By Anstruther we were looking at the theory that good campsites do not exist so we pulled up outside a coffee shop and treated ourselves to a latte. From there the road signs said road straight ahead closed and follow diversion – so we carried on straight ahead! After 4-5 miles Iain agreed ‘possibly’ the road was closed ahead as we hadn’t seen a single vehicle and he was turning round to go back.  As we headed back into Anstruther we spotted a campervan on the cliffs overlooking the sea and assumed that meant campsite. We followed the track down and hey presto a brand new campsite opened a few months ago. We have a pitch right on the edge of the cliff looking over the sea to the Isle of May. So far there isn’t a breath of wind – lets hope it stays that way or we could be waking up with wet feet 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

Dear auld Glasgow town

Day 2 – after leaving home yesterday we got as far as Glasgow. Staying on Strathclyde Caravan Club site, we stayed here several years ago when it was a Corporation site and to be honest a total dump. Now its Caravan Club and everything brand new and sparkly. There is a mini bus service from the site to the city centre for £7 return. Bargain so would seem rude not to. Iain not keen on a city day but convinced as I offered to pay for the open top bus tour of the city which takes 2 hours and can hop off at the museums.

River Clyde

So we get into the city and plan A falls to bits. Glasgow marathon is on in city centre, which means no buses! This results in plan B – slightly (much) shorter city tour confined to the St Georges Square and riverbank. The mini bus driver suggested St.Enochs so we had a look – shopping centre with the most amazing glass roof – stunning and a lovely place to sit and eat our butties as at this stage the rain had started. Once the sun was coming back out we headed out to see a bit of the city on our whistle stop walk, which included Central Station, photos sat on the lions in St Georges Square, Buchanan Street, Sauchiehall Street and crossing over the Clyde on 4 of the 21 bridges. We ended the day stopping in the ‘oldest bar on Hope Street’ (not sure but I think the dirt on the windows was older than me), I asked for a coffee ‘its a bar lassie’ was the response, ok a coke it is then 🙂

Central Station

Bike ride from hell!

First mistake – buying a book of easy bike rides in Scotland, hills = no such thing.

Left Melrose and cycled out on what could be termed undulating terrain. Next mistake – taking the route to Scott’s View, that should have told us it was going to be up a seriously long and steep hill – it was. Got to the top and the views were amazing, could see for miles and miles. (I am sure it said we were at 1080 metres but apparently Iain said 181 metres). From there we headed to Dryburgh and the Abbey, fabulous pretty well downhill all the way. Got to the Abbey and found we had to pay to get in so skipped that idea. Instead cycled down National Cycle Route 1. Over a very old chain bridge crossing the River Tweed and through Newtown only to find yet another bloody great hill between us and Melrose. So with a bit of cycling and a bit of pushing we made it back to camp. Just over 12 miles, felt more like 112 miles.

Reward time and an extremely unhealthy lunch of lorne sausage, haggis and back pudding – absolutely delicious and revived the spirits and the legs somewhat.
A lazy afternoon with papers followed by a stroll to Melrose Abbey, a walk along the River Tweed and a bit of a detour over yet another chain bridge – loving them. Suddenly its an hour and half later and time for tea already. Tomorrow early start and heading home 😦

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In the Borders

A quick pop to the shops this morning – ooops actually Perth City centre in rush hour, navigator error then:). From there straight down the motorway and one of our favourite bits of Scotland – driving over the Forth Road bridge looking at the Rail bridge, there can’t be many better views.

Skirted around Edinburgh down to the Borders. We were aiming for Newcastleton but stopped for lunch near Melrose and spotted an ace looking cycle route. So change of plan and cancelled campsite and managed to get 2 nights on the Melrose CC site instead. Its right in the middle of town and too close to the bakers, pie shops and bars to be good for us, we managed to resist most of them if not all.

It has now been persisting down for the last 4 hours – half the site is flooded (we are fine) forecast is ‘fried eggs’ tomorrow, if so bikes out, if not something indoors could be in order.

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Glen Shee to Perth

Stunning drive through Glen Shee this morning. Both wimped out of the chair lifts as very cold up there. Instead we had a late breakfast of coffee and toast in the mountain ski cafe. Amazing views all around which continue right down the glen to Blairgowie. We didn’t see the snow although the girl in the cafe did say it was on the tops above the ski lifts.

Stopped at Scone just outside Perth on the C&CC site. Its on the edge of the race course but no racing on today. Walked through the fields and found the back way into Scone Palace – no one there to charge us so that’s a free visit – don’t mind if we do thank you. Beautiful gardens and a great children’s adventure park. No kids there so we did the zipwire and the climbing wall. Iain proved to be a bit of a mountain goat, up the wall in seconds – he was pretty dam quick, just couldn’t get over the top so back down the way he went up:). I on the other hand only got half way up before I admitted defeat.

As we didn’t pay thought it only right we sampled the afternoon tea in the palace tearooms – well would be rude not to. Walked around the outside of the palace and dodged the multitude of peacocks as well as the hoards of coach load tourists. The sun is out and its loads warmer again now we are out of the mountains.

A gentle amble back to the van and maps out for the next leg of the trip home. Aiming to get straight down to the borders tomorrow in a one hop. Trying to convince Iain that he would like to stop off at Hermitage Castle on the way, not sure he is keen but we’ll see.

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Now its cold enough to know its Scotland

Bleedin freezing today! Winter wardrobes are out, hats, gloves, scarves the lot.

First stop was Ballater just 20 miles up the road. Out of the van and into a coffee and scone shop for Iain’s daily fix :). A couple of bike shops, cafes galore and very expensive clothes shops – most items had no prices so well out of my range. All the buildings old stone and quaint, bridge over the river Dee in the centre of town and a caravan site – was about it. Considered getting the bikes off – thought about how cold it was – and left them firmly on the back of the van.

From there we carried on to Braemar castle (as Queen is in residence we couldn’t go to Balmoral). Bit of a let down – looked like it was made of concrete but as it was built in 1679 that is unlikely. Very dull looking and not open to go inside so moved on fairly quickly.

Last stop of the day Braemar village and the campsite for tonight which is in the village. Another little place like all the others, very touristy and cute. Campsite is ace – it caters to wintersports and the skiers so big drying rooms, roasting showers etc. A couple of minutes down the lane and in the centre of village for more coffee this afternoon (no scones) 10 minutes and all the shops had been browsed, with all the coach trips thought we might have seen a Piper but alas not.

Back at camp now planning a slow route home. Tomorrow first stop Glenshee Ski area – checked their webcam and its snowing there. Not sure if Iain is going up on the ski lift, I am certain I am not. The lure of a big breakfast at the ski cafe is appealing though if he does intend risking frostbite and vertigo on the lifts.

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Aberdeen and back by bike

Bikes at the ready with butties in backpacks so we set off along the bike path towards Aberdeen – 35 mile round trip but we feel fit so going for it.

Starts off easier for me with fat tyres, less easy for Iain on gravel with his road bike. With the exception of half a mile on the footpath the route was all on cycle paths. Follows the River Dee for miles and goes through loads of little villages on the route. After 12 miles we were at the outskirts of Aberdeen so decided to do the last 5 miles being a slight downhill into the city and Duthrie Park.

A quick 15 minutes stop for lunch in the park and it started to turn a bit chilly so started back. Hmmm now the 5 miles is uphill with the wind against us – hard going to say the least. Once it levelled out things got easier until we got onto the footpath by the road. I tried to bump up the kerb – nope still can’t do that! Me and bike parted company with a crash. Cycling pants ripped, both knees have no skin on the, head took a bump on pavement. Bloody hell it hurt – not sure if knees hurt more than pride but looked a real wally laid out on the footpath waiting for Iain to come back and pick me up off the floor.

Only 6 miles to go then – great – every turn of the pedals hurts. We stopped for a coffee in a cafe and the pain eased slightly (ok its only grazed knees but it hurts!). Uneventful run the rest of the way along side the river Dee. Woohoo 35 miles is our longest ride to date, well done us 🙂

Back at camp and the latest OU essay score is in – 90%. I am so pleased with it that the knees no longer hurt at all.

Iain off to Tesco which is 2 minutes away whilst I get dinner on, then its flake out time for us as we are what is technically know as knackered!! Tired but happy campers planning to stay here another day to ride the opposite direction tomorrow.

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Royal Deeside

Destination this morning was southbound to St Andrews for a few days. Went out to the coast at Montrose and it was so lovely we drove north for a bit first. Stopped on the harbour at Stonehaven to make lunch and a quick check of the map – realised we were almost in Aberdeen.

So decided on Royal Deeside for a few days as were so close anyway. Headed inland to Banchory and the cc site. As always very clean, fabulous showers and enormous hard standing pitches. There is a cycle track called the Deesideway from here to Aberdeen in one direction, 20 odd miles and the other way its 42 miles to Braemar – apparently we are trying it tomorrow god help us!

Just been for a walk into Banchory, we thought it was 2 minutes from the site – no – its 2 miles. So the legs are well and truly stretched after that little hike. Typical little Scottish town with mainly old fashioned independent shops which sell everything you can think of. Walked down to the River Dee but no signs of any royals fly fishing today.

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Glamis Castle and Forfar

Sun is back with us today 🙂 headed east towards the coast but happened across Glamis castle. Iain offered a treat of the guided tour around the castle – well would be rude not to as love castles and no trip is complete without a visit to at least one.

We got to see some of the private rooms as well as the older parts. Nearly every room had a reference or photo of the Queen mum and those that didn’t then Mary Queen of Scots had slept there (we have never been to a castle she hasn’t slept in). Absolutely stunning castle and a ‘lively’ commentary from the American tour guide to say the least. From the outside its real fairytale castle with turrets galore and in the paddocks by the car park highland cows and calves were munching outside the camper whilst we ate our lunch like a couple of Pikeys in the van.

From there we were heading coast bound again but came across Forfar so thought we may as well stop here for the night. Campsite on the edge of a lake in town. All brand new and quite swish but not sure if the 8ft fences are to keep us in or to keep the locals out? Iain has strolled into town and back to check out the shops, he came back empty handed so guessing its not a top shopping destination.
Now enjoying the sunshine before a bit of tea and tv for the evening.

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Anniversary day

Happy 5th anniversary to us – cards hung up in van and feels somewhat festive : )

After gale force winds rocking the van throughout the night we woke up to blue skies – hurrah!

We walked into town and had a mooch around the shops. Lovely little town full of outdoor and gift shops. All the buildings are old stone and there is a massive castle at the end of town. Walked over the salmon ladders – didn’t see but a one jumping though. The swing bridge did just that as we crossed – a bit too bouncy for me, felt a bit seasick. A couple of fishermen in the river up to their waists didn’t seem to be catching much but looked terribly cold

From the ladders we walked over the dam which takes you back into town. Realised we had been out for 4 hours so stopped for a latte and a sticky bun. Made our third stop of the day in the Giant Cycle shop and talked Iain into buying the rather loud cycle jersey he kept gazing at on each visit. The shop owner so glad to see the back of us he threw in a couple of drinks bottles.

Back to the van for a read of the papers and watch the French invasion, several enormous motorhomes not too worried about one way systems – chaos. Decided to treat ourselves to a meal out to celebrate 5 very lovely years so been back into town for steak dinners finished off with a Magnum lolly from the newsagents on the way back. Perfect day.

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Mission Rannoch accomplished

Left Killin this morning and heading for Pitlochry. Weather brightened a little on route so couldn’t resist taking the turning to Rannoch. Passed through Dull ( twinned with Boring in USA) 40 or so miles later Rannoch Loch insight. The loch is about 15 miles long and although very remote loads of cute cottages and cabins along the edge. Managed to pull in for a lunch stop at the waters edge – van pointing very downhill so cooking a bit of a challenge as everything kept trying to slide off the cooker.

After lunch we decided we may as well carry on to Rannoch Station, according to tv programme we saw, nothing there except the station and its little cafe (scones are calling). Trek out there up little roads and in pouring rain. The road ends at the station, very remote, very scenic, fairly cloudy and the cafe is very closed! A note in the window saying the water doesn’t pass the treatment tests.

A long trek back to civilisation but the navigator knows how to find the House of Bruar – massive outlet with a big gourmet food mall. Stock up on posh food and then time to find a campsite. We pick one on internet and put in Sat Nav – I can see we are going to end up back near Rannoch as we are going round in a circle. A couple of cross’ish words and we scrap that plan, destination Pitlochry instead. Nice campsite a few minutes from centre of town. Pitched up listening to that rain pelt down – ah the glorious Scottish weather. Tomorrow hoping to go see the salmon climbing the ladders just around the corner – and a shop around town.

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omg – so much rain, look at Iain now!

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Killin

Walked into the village of Killin this morning, only 10 minutes from the site. Fabulous water falls, the Falls of Dochart, right in the village, loads of cafes and a few shops. Iain had his daily scone and then decided time to get the bikes down and work off some scone lbs.

We went for the easiest route we could find, as you do. A quick couple of miles on the flat down to the loch and back then there was nowhere to go except uphill for about 5 miles into the mountains. Steady climb and the further we got the more beautiful the scenery was. Highlight was coming face to face with 2 small deer, literally 3 or 4 feet away from us. Not sure who was more shocked as we all stood and looked at each other for that few seconds that feels like minutes – priceless.

The way back was downhill all they way, our kind of bike riding. Saw a small herd of deer who were across a field, they didn’t move until I got the camera out then they were gone like a shot, typical.
This afternoon we sat and did some reading (me) and some snoozing (him). Suddenly at 5 o’clock he gets another energy burst and back out on the bikes we go. Try to find the old railway line as that will be flat – nope its uphill again. Get to the top and come straight back down, a few loops on the tracks round the village and then we give up as its freezing.

Bikes are now thankfully back on board, we head off tomorrow but not sure where till we see what the weather holds. Forecast on camp notice boards shows snow on higher ground, so probably heading for as lower ground as we can find.

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How wide?

Set off this morning via the Colintraive ferry, 7 minutes crossing and neither of us were sea sick 🙂

From there it was up the loch to Glendaruel then back down the other side as far as Tighnabruaich. Quite a big town in the middle of nowhere with restaurants and shops, little prom and lovely gardens. We crossed over then to the Loch Fyne side. Much quieter and hardly any houses. Eventually we got to Otter Ferry and a glorious little pub and restaurant on the quayside for morning coffee.

As we pulled away we saw the sign – “Max width ahead 7.6” and how wide are we? Only 7.7 – dam, blast and lots of other not so good words. We have tried fitting through gaps smaller than the van before, its not a good idea (memories of being wedged between a barrier in South Wales come to us). So our only option is to turn around and re-trace our steps and do nearly 60 miles to reach the top of Loch Fyne – about 10 miles from where we are now! So we turn around and 2 mins up the road we see the binmen in their wagon. After some deliberation its agreed we ‘could’ make it as they used to before the limit went on. So we turn around again and go for it. A very nervous 10 miles or so on tight roads and bends waiting for the dreaded width barriers to appear. Road is very narrow but luckily for us we get through and both breathe out when the road widens out.

A well earned chick pea curry currently defrosting from the freezer is anticipated until we find its actually Broccoli soup that I have forgotten to re-label! Its just not our day. Cobble together a leftovers curry and noodles instead, its food , its hot and it does us fine.

Head over Rest and Be Thankful in glorious sunshine then up the side of Loch Lomond where we sing about the Bonnie, bonnie banks….At Crianlarich we turn right and decide destination will be Killin as both feeling the need for a stopover. Now on site by the river watching the heavens open again Staying for 2 nights as camp is right in town so the van and driver get a well earned rest tomorrow.

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Beautiful Bute

This has been a revelation, we both expected a bit of a run down seaside town. Anything but, beautiful big stone houses, miles of promenade and altogether looks like a very expensive and well kept island. Then again at £38 to get here its not cheap, and we’re going to have to get a different ferry to get off.

Did a round trip of the island, managed to get most of it in before the heavens opened. Ettrick Bay was the best bit, parked up on the beach for lunch and watched Arran appearing and disappearing through the rain and mist. Miles of sandy beach and when the sun popped out it was stunning, saw a couple of seals just off the beach basking in the apparent Scottish warmth. A quick mooch round the shops in Rothesay this afternoon whilst I did a bit of retail therapy, Iain did a scone and jam with a cup of tea.

Back at campsite and its full up, luckily we left our pitch reserved with the international sign of an electric cable out in the rain meaning ‘we’ll be back’. Thinking of challenging the campervan next door to a pool match in the games room later on as its too wet for Petang.

Overnight on the island then tomorrow we head off on the little ferry to the north. Intend to do the loop of the peninsula to the west of the island before heading up Loch Fyne (via the Oyster Bar) then eastbound over Crianlarich towards Perth. Once we get there its either Aberdeen and the coast – or if the weather lifts Rannoch Moor to see how much of nothing there is at the most desolate and out of the way railway station in the UK.

Web Feet are now coming along nicely, no risk of sunburn for the next few days 😦

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a wee bit breezy on the ferry

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Moving on time

Up with the larks and away by 9am. Quick stop in Stranraer for provisions (read Beer) and heading North. Followed A78 up the coast, stunning route with incredible views. When we got to Ayr decided to detour to Alloway to show Iain Burn’s birthplace, found it but at £5 a head for a quick look we did a drive by viewing instead.

As its Sunday Iain is treating out to a nice lunch. Ok reread that to mean – we are going to an auld bar in Irvine where its £5 a head for 2 shoe soles (calling themselves beef) half a ton of spuds and 3 slices of carrot. We know how to live the high life – Not 🙂

From there we follow Sally Sat Nav down a dead end before following my map reading skills back towards Largs. Iain has the need to visit an island so we turn left at Wemyss Bay onto the ferry for the Isle of Bute. Quick 15 minutes crossing in a gale (lose half a Latte to the wind) and we arrive in Rothesay. We know only 1 campsite on the island so let Sally Sat Nav take the lead. Bad move – she takes us up a winding road with 45 degree turns. Need to stop and reverse the van to get round the bends. After a few hairy moments we re-join the road we just left – bloody Sat Nav saved us about 15 ft and gave us 10 years more grey hair.

Anyway campsite found, well a small gravel path in the middle of a static park. Us and 3 other vans there – 1 more and its full so hope there isn’t a rush. Booked on for 2 nights so we can see the island then will head off by the ferry to the North.

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… have no time to stand and stare

This morning we drove over to Wigtown ‘the Book Town of Scotland’. Lots of book shops, all in what seems more like houses than shops. A market in the middle of the main street, where we got cheese scones, and a few cafes. Strange little town where nearly everyone seemed to be from a campervan and hardly any locals about. Went to see the Osprey watch, bit of a let down as the female was dead so no chicks this year.

From there drove over to Port William and parked up on the beach to cook lunch. Here Iain met his mate in the photo – a big resemblance?

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Perfectly lazy day

We don’t seem to be able to drag ourselves away from here, its just too lovely.

The sun came back out this morning so we walked all of 20 steps to the beach. I had my first ‘lesson’ from the Kite Master – and I was pretty good at it. Some nerves that I was going to take off with it, but other than that only a few spectacular crash landings and kept it flying for several minutes at a time. To be fair its actually quite good fun and makes the wind seem worthwhile.

Left him to it and went bird watching for an hour, had another paddle and it was considerably warmer today. Quite a few people on site have boats and dinghies so watched a few launch then back for lunch. This afternoon passed by in a mad rush of doing nothing but reading and watching the new arrivals come onto site. We did have a break from the action to munch an icecream, tiring work all this chilling out.

Booked another 2 nights here then we really will head off somewhere until then just enjoying one of our new top places to visit.

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Mull of Galloway

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How windy can it be?

Very is the answer – woke up to a gale this morning so being fair weather cyclists we took the van out instead of bikes.

Headed South to the Mull of Galloway. Lighthouse was destination and Iain well looking forward to climbing to the top. Sadly on arrival we are told can’t go up today (yipee – I hate heights). Iain told the keeper how disappointing it was at least 3 times, thought he was going to let us go up but he didn’t – phew. Outside the exhibition we attempted to walk around but as we were at risk of flying off the cliff and ending up in Belfast we abandoned the Mull and headed to Port Logan.

Tiny little village of about 20 houses, small harbour, pub and village hall. The tv series 2000 Acres of Sky was filmed here. So looking forward to sitting in the pub where Dennis Pennis used to sit (he starred in it) but it had fallen down – literally they are rebuilding it. So instead cooked our lunch in the carpark on the harbour watching the gannets fish.

From there we headed to Port Patrick up the coast. Absolutely amazing place. Beautiful harbour, loads of cafes and pubs, cute gift shops and a pottery. Went for a coffee and would have been rude not to eat the lovely cakes – so we did, fab :). Then the rain came down so time to head back – via Stranraer (totally off route but may as well).

Stranraer a bit of a revelation. We expected Holyhead with haggis but its actually a really nice town. Plenty of shops, loads of pubs and cafes. Sad to see the dock is now all closed up and derelict signs show all sailings are now from Cairnryan, so we may as well go. Only 5 miles – and when we get there its 3 ports and a few houses – ok so we have seen them and can go home for tea now.

Back at campsite at 7pm – rain has stopped, wind has died down and sky is clearing so hoping tomorrow is going to be calmer.

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Day 2 – Sunshine on the beach

New England Bay caravan site on Luce Bay. Pretty dam gorgeous, views are incredible, very laid back site in the sand dunes. A few steps out the door and we are on the beach. Not a sound from traffic as the road is a fair bit away just the wind and the seagulls, bliss.

Kite boy was out first thing flying. Miles of sand and just a couple of walkers and a bloke practising his golf. I did some bird spotting and had a quick paddle (rather brisk – well freezing but if by the sea must stick feet in water !).

This afternoon we walked up the coast along the beach. A bit hard going as tide in so walking on the rocks. A few fabulous old properties that need converting, right on the sea shore. Looking over the sea to the Isle of Man clear as a bell, thought it was Ireland then realised we are the wrong side of the peninsula for that! Back via the road as easier going even if it was uphill most of the way -(note to us ‘don’t cycle that way). Two hours later we fell back into the camper a little tired and looking a bit Rudolph as forgot the suncream.

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Scotland – here we go

The annual pilgrimage – destination 1 is the Mull of Galloway. Left home at 11am fully laden with all the essentials, food, drink, fuel and the driver!

Clear run up to the Lakes and stopped to make lunch in a Service Area carpark – very scenic. Finally bought a new road atlas so I can keep a check on Sally Sat Nav, so much better when you can see where you are going.

Arrived at campsite at 5.30 pm and well worth the drive. Stunning pitch on the front overlooking Luce Bay. Its fairly busy but plenty of space and incredible views.

Found out what the lovely fruity smell was – ooops the washing up liquid lid wasn’t shut, so the cupboards are a bit frothy and sticky 😦

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Jura

Up early to catch the little fery over to Jura for a night. On arrival as the quay the ferryman warned us to be careful we didnt ‘bottom out’ getting up the ramp. Not sure anything much bigger than our 6metres would get on (although there were 40ft artic’s think its more the overhang on the campers that causes a problem). Its a 10 minute jounrey across and believe it or not its a culture shock even after Islay.

Once we let the other ferry traffic pass us there wasn’t a car on the roads. Apparently there are 180 people live on the island, slightly outnumbered by 5000 deer. We ambled along to the ‘main’ town of Craighouse. Ok we are a bit of heaven here – tiny with a little shop, a hotel, a cafe and the Jura distillery all within yards of each other. Very few house, a little pier and glorious sunshine. We popped into the cafe for lunch – The Antlers -and learned all we need to know from the owner in minutes, so friendly. The cafe has only been open a year and serves wonderful cakes, we like it here:)

The campsite is at the hotel so we walked over to book in – epic fail by Sandra – it is a ‘Campsite’ – not a caravan park, oops didn’t research that too well! Luckily the lovely receptionist suggests we stop over on the pier that the hotel owns, no charge, no worries just genuinely wanting to get us sorted, made our day.

So we treat ourselves to dinner in the hotel and so glad we did food was amazing. Sat next to a group of wild swimmers who are off to swim the Corryvreckan Whirlpool at the north of the island – nutters! The boat owner spends the evening telling us that it’s his boat in the tv program about wild swimming where Robson Green swims the whirlpool. Tired and full campers back to the pier for a quiet and free night’s sleep.

In the morning we drive as far up the island as the road allows, not too far to be fair. Wind has picked up and its not too appealing being buffeted around so we head back to town for the Jura distillery tour. Only us as the others booked haven’t turned up. A really good tour that last over an hour. We discover that Jura barrels are used barrels from Jack Daniels – ah so that’s why I like both:) Tour ends and we cannot help but purchase a bottle to take home.

Absolutely love this island and it is another one we will come back to. The people are the most friendly and welcoming over. There is a total lack of vehicles and the views are awesome. Jura scores top marks from Baxter Bus.

More Islay – there is so much to see

So for the time being settled at Kintra Farm, the weather is ok – some sunshine some rain. But the best part is two feet away from the beach. We walked along for miles today and saw a handful of people walking dogs but other than that it was like having our own beach. Only 2 or 3 other campers there so its very peaceful.

Looking at the tourist information we found a few things we thought looked like we needed to make sure we visited.

First one was Finlaggan. Its the was the centre of the Lordship of the Isles. Its now mainly ruins but some of the buildings were still fairly complete and its all set on an island on Loch Finlaggen. We spent a couple of hours wandering around, little footbridges link you to the islands and there are plenty of information boards telling you about the history.

Next stop was the Islay Wollen Mill – like something from a hundred years ago. The looms were running and it was so loud you could hardly hear yourself speak. The owner came and spoke to us and he came from? Yes Wales. He had moved up to Islay years ago and now run the mill with his family. They made incredibly beautiful tartans and cloths that he told us were sold to lots of the fashion houses. The sort of place that could be a major tourist attraction but other than selling some souvenirs it really is just a working mill.

Last stop today was Islay House Square. Several small craft businesses set up in old coach house buildings. There was a brewery of islay ale, yes lost Iain in there for an hour doing tastings. Also a wonderful quilting workshop, amazing quilts made by the local ladies – I could have spent a fortune in there. We bought a few chocolates from the little chocolates shop and decided to head back to camp for the night. A little windy of the dunes but the views over the loch more than made up for that.

So this morning we decided to head for the American Monument on the Oa Peninsular. We parked in the carpark and walked the mile uphill (yes walking and uphill) to the monument. Cold and blowy for sunny so it certainly blew the cobwebs away. The monument was erected the the American Red Cross to commemorate the loss of 266 American servicemen who drowned when the HMS Tuscania was torpedoed just off the coast in 1918 and a few months later another ship the HMS Otranto was sunk. The monument is 131 metres high and built to look like a lighthouse, very moving to read the inscriptions and names and worth the effort to get there.

We have seen a fair few wild camping in the true sense of the word. Lots of little beaches and people tuck away there vans out of anyones way. There are only the two campsites on the island so there isnt too much choice but for us Port Charlotte is the best choice, especially at this time of year when its a bit cold, lovely warm showers and a nice cafe on site are a big bonus. The village of Port Charlotte has very little there but well worth a walk around just to see the whitewashed cottages and of course the local pub!

We seem to have seen all we want to now so we plan to head over to Jura tomorrow.

Islay bound

From Machrihanish we head up the coast towards Tarbert to catch our ferry to Islay. We pass the island of Gigha on our left (on our list to visit next time) and arrive with plenty of time for the ferry to Kennacraig on Islay. Visiting the Queen of the Hebrides is something we have both wanted to do since we bought the first camper so somewhat excited to say the least.

Another smooth crossing and arrive at 5pm dead on time. As usual no idea where to go for the night, we think of wild camping but decide against. A check on the internet shows a site at Port Charlotte at the Leisure Centre. We get on easily even though there are only a few pitches which are right on the edge of a low cliff overlooking the beach. It’s fairly windy so a little apprehensive but sure it will be fine, the cafe in the leisure centre sells Irn Bru ice cream – life really doesn’t get any better. The path down to the beach bring you to loads of little rock pools, plenty to dip in and out of and lose a few hours looking at the views of the Paps of Jura in this distance over Bowmore.

So first full day on the island and time to explore a bit. First stop Portnahaven and Wemyss Bay. Two little hamlets at the end of the peninsular. Tiny fishing cottages, a bar and not much else.  There is a lighthouse a few hundred yards out and we couldn’t work out of there was a causeway as tide was coming in so gave that a miss rather than get caught out with the tides.

By now Iain was itching to get started on any one of the eight distillers on the island so we headed for Kilchoman, the first new distillery to be built on the island for over 25 years. Its based on a farm with an incredible gift shop and cafe – worth visiting for these alone.  From there we toured the north west of the island, roads are good and easy enough to get the camper most places. Lots of little sandy beaches with hardly a soul on them.

At the top of the island we went to the RSPB reserve, to be honest better spotting by the lochs. Loch Gruinart is one of the loveliest places on the island. When the tide goes out you can walk across but would be careful as it turns quite quickly. We saw several wild campers – discussed whether we should wild camp – and agreed we are too woosy and head back to camp.

Another day another distillery. This time we visited Laphroaig on the South. Wonderful tour, and a free tasting for me (Iain driving – bless:) ). Weather was crappy all day – low cloud so a drive along the coast was a bit pointless but we did it anyway. A trip down to the village for supplies then decide to try the other campsite on the island Kintra Farm. On the opposite side of the bay past Bowmore right in the sand dunes by the loch. No electric and pitch where you want. Its all lovely except you arent allowed to empty you toilet! at all even if you use green chemicals. So you cant stay long before you need to head to the other site.

Cambletown to Machrihanish

Next day we head into Cambletown for a bit of shopping. Nice enough town which has maybe seen better days. Lunch in one of the old hotels was very nice and the harbour looks busy with plenty of big fishing vessels around. Would say its not really a tourist town though so we decided to head for destination “Mull of Kintyre Lighthouse”.

Followed signs along little lanes for several miles, excitement growing as we only have 2 miles to go then major obstacle – bridge with a 3.5 ton weight limit! Yup that counts us out and we are risking it, our luck would be it collapses. So quite dejected we head to Machrihanish for the night.

What a campsite – set just back from probably one of the most beautiful beaches we have ever seen. Only a few other campers so its peaceful if a little windy. We head down to the Bird Watch station, which is closed but we glimpse something large in the water – only about 12 seals 10ft off the beach. Watched then for ages just enjoying baking in the sun. We walked along the beach for miles and miles and saw only one other person and a jellyfish. This has to be worth a visit again – top beach.

http://campkintyre.co.uk/ 

Mull of Kintyre

The ferry leaves from just up the road from the campsite and we are first in the queue. That counts for nothing when they decided its too windy to sail! We sit on the edge of the road (no real harbour as such) and watch the clouds and fog for 2 hours. Dont want to lose our place as the ferry is tiny and there is now 3 ferry loads waiting. At lunchtime the ferry arrives and weather calms right down – thank god. Its a short hop of 30 minutes over to Claonaig on the Mull.

Arrival and for us its another island, although strictly speaking its part of the mainland. First we head for the 13th century Skipness Castle just a stone throw from ferry arrival. First  positive – its free to enter, loving it when you are on a budget. Mainly ruins but plenty to see and you can climb the walls (he did I obviously wouldn’t). A fairly bleak day but surprisingly a fair few people around the castle.

Then its time to head South to find somewhere to stay the night. First campsite we come across is Carradale Bay CS.http://www.carradalebay.com/index.htm

What a find, beautiful site set out in the sand dunes, we can just glimpse the see from our pitch. Lovely warden who gets us set up quickly and leaves us to brew up whilst we contemplate the amazing views. Iain decided he would like a drink so we decide to walk into the nearby village, problems one we don’t actually check how to get there first!

We head out along the beach and see signs to a village, we follow them but see what we think is a shortcut, it wasnt! we miss the village and end up on a footpath to nowhere. Well to be fair the worst routes often find the best places. We come across a tiny hamlet with a typical stone Scottish hotel in the middle of nowhere right by a beach. We knock and ask and the owner says we can have a drink in the bar. Its amazing, its perfect – more tartan than you can imagine. The Dunvalanree Hotel – if you find it go there you wont regret it (but don’t have your drink outside in a sea of midges as we did – big massive mistake!!!)

http://www.dunvalanree.com/

First stop Arran

A quick hop and we crossed the border – first top as always Gretna Green – we love it. The little shopping complex is ace and we like to buy a few bits there, then have lunch in the camper in the bus park, kind of tradition for us whenever we go to Scotland.

From there we took a route through Dumfries and up through the forests. I was allowed to drive (yes amazing) and could see why as it was very quiet and fairly dull to be honest. A bit grey so not much to see other than trees, trees and more trees. As we got closer to the Scottish coast we were looking for campsites but Iain decided we may as well try for an early ferry over to Arran – woop woop. So its foot down to Ardossan and luckily for us they can fit us on the 5 o’clock sailing. As soon as we had checked in we nipped back out to the ASDA outside the port to stock up on beer and a our first haggis of the holidays.

Ferry crossing was calm – and just under an hour to arrival in Brodick. As its now 6 o’clock and we havent booked a campsite and dont know where there are any we decided tohead South. First site we saw looked big and not us so we carried on into the countrside and saw a CL sign. Up a small track and a lovely little site Ardlui CL. Views down over the sea and only one other caravan there. The warden said just pitch up and sort out tomorrow as X Factor about to start! Suited us so a quick fry up for tea of Haggis and eggs and tucked into watch X Factor ourselves.

Next morning visited the showers – one and only visit. Sink hanging off wall, literally. Door doesnt look and washing machine is in there too – all very cosy with other users of the washing machine, so maybe stick to our own facilities.

Next morning its up and out to tour the South of the island. Whiting Bay is no more than a hamlet really but nice little promenade and lovely views out to sea. From there we headed to Kildonan right at the bottom. Small village but a lovely campsite right on the beach. We did enquire but it was fully booked, sadly. The front beaches were right on the beach so this is one to remember next time we are here.

By now hunger was setting in as usual we headed up the west coast to the beach at Torbeg. Miles of glorious sand and a few Sunday morning walkers around. Windy but warm enough for a dip in the sea, walked along the beach for miles then back through the golf course (dodging golf balls so that probably isn’t the best route to take).

From there we cut across the middle of the island back to Brodick. Nice town, very small with just a few shops and cafes. Again there is a promenade but this ones runs for at least a mile or so along the shore. Then it was back to camp for the night.

Next day we decided to explore the north of the island and move to a campsite at Lochranza. Drove up the east coast and stopped for a visit to Brodick castle. Plenty to see and one of the biggest gift shops I have ever seen. We also went to the Arran cheese factory where tastings were allowed. Well that was a good hour for us choosing several tasty flavoured cheeses to stock up the van including a rather nice whisky flavoured cheddar.

Isle of Arran cheese shop    http://www.arranscheeseshop.co.uk/

Ok so needing to walk off a ton of food (mainly cheese) we aim for Goatfell. Iain isnt too enamored and decided to give up after half an hour and wait for me. Its not that steep but a little hard going in places. An hour later I made as far as I could go. Sat down for a breather and here comes himself up behind me – fair play, own speed and made it no problems.

Time for a change of campsite so we book in to Lochranza campsite on the north of the island. Well spread out with plenty of pitches, and wild deer wandering around the site – literally. Up close they are massive and just a little scary. The weather turned on us and rain set in so it was a bit dull but to be fair can imagine it to be lovely on a good day. A little restaurant outside the campsite had a notice selling supplies – sent Iain out for some butter, he comes back with a tablespoon full for which he was charged £2!!!! bloody robbery. We didn’t have time to visit the distillery but heard from others it was  worth a trip around and a few tastings.  There was a couple of small hotels in the village but nothing much else so we decided to move on in the morning – destination Paul McCartney land and the Mull of Kintyre.

The Lakes and lemon curd

Staying at Riverside Tourer Park near Hesket Newmarket, Millhouse in the North of the Lakes. Lovely little site split into two CL’s type areas. The showers / toilets are in garden sheds – literally. Much nicer than it sounds as really well done and cosy. A river running around the site and some nice walks. We managed to walk up the hills from the site – then got a little lost on our way back. Kept coming across fences that we couldn’t quite climb. In the end our various detours took us twice as long to come down as it did to go up.

Recommend the site http://www.riverside-tourer-park.co.uk/

The next day the Hesket Newmarket Show was on so we decided on a quick visit before crossing the border. How glad were we ? it was stunning. Quote small showground but plenty of animals on show. A show jumping ring and several demonstrations. The best part was the marquees. It seemed like the whole village had entered every category  Stacks of lemon curd, more cakes than we could count, flowers, vegetables etc. etc. Then a tent full of chickens and things like “5 eggs on a plate” or  “a carrot and 2 beetroot”. Its worth being in the area to visit this show – you can spend a full day easily and eat your body weight in homemade goodies.

Destination Scottish islands via Yorkshire

Heading North – but slight detour into Yorkshire on route as we need to call in for to the manufacturers of the water heater for some repairs. So our first stop on our glorious tour was Doncaster! It wasnt as bad as we feared and we headed to a small shopping complex and had a wander around for a couple of hours. Day one of the big trip and the sun came out – so that called for ice-cream

So the heater didnt get fixed – enough said. Decided to head off to the a  CC site for the night, Knaresborough was the closest to hand so managed to get one of the last few pitches they had available. Good site with a small restaurant and bar (a bit different for the CC).

From there in the morning headed across the North Yorkshire moors towards the Lakes. Pately Bridge was our first stop of the day, we liked very much – me for the oldest sweet shop in England, Iain for the best pie shop selling breakfast pies. On the road again and we see a stop off at Stump Cross Caves. Not for me, but Iain goes down into the bowels for a look around, I on the other hand visit the tea shop and gift shop – much less scary. Amazing roads over the moors, scenery is incredible, we do not visit Yorkshire enough and must come more often its fabulous.

We ended the day at Settle, where we intended to have a treat with a trip on the Settle Steam Railway, alas it was not to be – we missed the last train of the year by a week! So we made do with a walk around the town, some lovely book shops and a few tourist holdups – Iain found his namesake pub along the way.

Stop off at the most amazing little CL –  Lowther Hill Caravan Park.  The owner a real character “Mad Issy” and the site like something from the 1950’s. Clean and tidy but the toilet and shower inside the sheds. Just us there and hardly a car past the site all afternoon. Absolutely amazing views over the moors – and all for £12 with ehu – we will go there again.

Away fairly handy in the morning and heading North West, we missed the Shap turn (we have missed it too many times to count). So headed to Millhouse Caravan site, our stop for the next couple of nights.