Looking at our trusty atlas we both agreed the Ringkobing Fjord seemed unmissable, over 30 km long (but less than 2 metres deep across the whole fjord) with a causeway separating it from the sea. A few miles further on Nissum Fjord, slightly shorter but still only separated from the sea by a sliver of land, so two fjords for the price of one both on what appeared spectacular causeways. We have to be honest and say, it looked better on the map!
It is a brilliant road but somewhat wider than we thought. To our left we had a view of the san-dunes to our right if we squinted we could see the fjords. It was worth the effort, plenty of parking spots that allow you to climb over the dunes onto the pure white North Sea sand and possibly some of the best beach houses we have seen from cutesy wooden beach shacks to enormous Saxon houses built around small courtyards.
Despite it being the end of June and what we thought would be busy holiday season there was a serious lack of holidaymakers. Those we did see were pretty much all German. Without exaggeration two out of three of every registration plates we saw were (car and motorhome) German.
It could have been the gale force winds putting all but the hardy off but we were told that high season starts next week and they are expecting an influx of visitors. We braved the winds for a spell on the beach, spent an hour pebble collecting, had a good sand-blasting then we returned to the van and avoided that side of the dunes for the rest of the day.
Danish shack style
We broke the causeway driving with a stop in Ringkobing town, parking up on the marina overnight. The harbour had one craft stall selling hides and authentic Norse wear to motorhomers and sailors alike – we are proud to say we resisted, even if Iain did look rather fetching in a moose hat.
Ringkobing town square
We wandered around town for a few hours, pretty much your average tourist town, lots of cafes, some decent shops and a rather strange church where the tower is wider at the top than at the bottom.
We were disappointed not to find Danish Bacon anywhere, we thought Denmark would be rife with bacon butties. Instead the local speciality is called a “sausage wagon”, to us a big hot dog, there are stands in every town and village but humble bacon butty is nowhere to be found. Whilst we continue the hunt for bacon Iain is single handedly maintaining current national production levels of the Danish pastry, consuming them at every opportunity.
On the edge of the marina was the “The survival of the fattest” statue, previously displayed in Copenhagen at the 2009 UN Climate Change Conference next to the famous Little Mermaid. Denoting the fat of the West on the shoulders of the underfed Africa, its new home overlooks a chip shop and ice-cream parlour – unsure if they thought of that when deciding where to place it?
“Survival of the Fattest”
Due to the jaunt up the fjords we ended up further North in Jutland than we planned so we called a halt at Gyldendal. A small marina, a couple of houses and an ice-cream shop was the sum total of the hamlet. Very like being in the Hebrides in terms of scenery and weather (we didn’t have rain we had torrents), our view looked over a misty fjord where the occasional sailing boat past, other than that not a soul around. Behind the marina were wooden structures about 3 ft high, looking a bit like shoe boxes with a gap at the front. These are for people to sleep in, walkers, cyclists etc can just climb in with a sleeping bag and kip out of the elements. Outside each one was a fire pit, bench and water supply – cracking idea for camping on a budget.
The main tourist attraction in the area was the castle, the best preserved medieval castle in Denmark. Built in 1521, it has not one but two moats, and a lively bunch of volunteers dressed in period costumes and wandering around making coins, baking pancakes, weaving etc. Inside the castle it’s access all areas, from the cellars – where the only lighting is candles burning on tables – right up into the rafters where boarding allows you to walk through the roof spaces. Outside the the herb and rose gardens were beautifully restored to mimic a medicinal medieval garden.
We decided to make a dash South East towards Aarhus this afternoon, as we did the Gods of rain decided to show us we hadn’t seen anything yet and it came down in bucket loads, We are now just to the South of Aarhus at the farm of the lovely Jorgen, who has a small area for motorhomes to park on the edge of his yard. He tells us tonight its going to be thunder storms and heavier rain – how it gets heavier we don’t know – on the upside we have fried eggs and 26 /82 degrees forecast for the next week so we should (we hope) be moaning about it being too hot by about Wednesday! 🙂