Bridgnorth and the Severn Valley

Weekend away to test out the new ‘cuppa shelves’ in the camper. We now have two small shelves in the corners above the bed to hold a morning coffee or tea so it would seem ungrateful not to get away and test them out! Our plan was to meet us with our Tribby friends, Phil and Jan, and catch up with news of their 6 week trip down through France and Switzerland and enjoy a bit of sightseeing around the Severn Valley.

Arrived at our campsite, The Squirrel, in Alveley just outside Bridgnorth on Saturday afternoon. The forecast was to see the tale end of Hurriance Bertha but the sun was shinning and all was good with the world. Just off the main road to Kidderminster there were 10-12 pitches set behind the pub and a bowling green. All looked good with the exception of a very small child who popped over and stole our step! Luckily the culprit was apprehended and said step returned amidst lots of tears and tantrums (hers not ours!). After an afternoon sat in the sun we had a meal in the pub followed by a few drinks, and were impressed that the pub was happy to serve 1/4 pints for those of us not able to drink in large quantities.

Sunday morning was fairly bright but storm clouds were looming. Deciding that it would be fine we dressed in waterproofs and headed to the Severn Valley Country Park. What appeared on the map to be a 10 minute walk turned out to be a mile or so up hill and then down the other side. Well worth the effort though as the park stretches for miles on either side, a total of 51 hectares. Well maintained footpaths lead you down to the river itself where the Severn Valley Steam Railway runs alongside the river and a multitude of paths and trails. At this stage Bertha kicked in with vengeance – it wasn’t just raining, it was hammering down, accompanied by thunder and lightening. We decided the best plan was to head for a cafe at the station, this would have been a good plan if our route has arrived at the station rather than a Halt.  By now we were all soaked so Plan B and head back whence we came to the visitor centre for well earned coffees and cakes and to try an dry out a little. By the time we left the rain had gone and the sun was out so we walked back to camp with steam rising from us as we walked feeling rather smug that we had managed 4.5 miles in the tale end of a hurricane.

By Monday the storm had well and truly passed so we decided to take a bus trip into Bridgnorth. A lovely market town in the heart of Shropshire, its split into two towns – High Town and Low Town. Whilst they are joined by a road they are also joined by a funicular cliff railway, the only inland one in the country, so that’s the way to travel between the two, only £1.20 return with amazing views. The low town runs along side the river and there are a few shops and cafes, we took the picnic option and bought supplies from M&S and sat on a bench by the river to watch the world walk by as we ate. Back up in the High Town we walked along the town walls and stopped for a quick look in the church of St. Mary, designed by Thomas Telford, before heading over to the main attraction, being the Severn Valley Steam Railway. Not sure what it is that beats the sight, sound and smell of a steam train? For us it was the icing on the cake of a fabulous day. The train runs down to Kidderminster but we were tied to a bus ticket back to camp so we didn’t take the trip (we will next time). So it was back up to town for a wander around the shops for an hour, plenty of independent shops and old fashioned bakers and delicatessens, before heading back on the bus for a well earned afternoon nap.

Bridgnorth Station

Bridgnorth tourists

View from High Town

Monsal Trail

Last day today,  and to make sure if wasn’t a gloomy one we had saved the Monsal Trail bike ride for this morning, we have been looking forward to riding this one for several months.

Our campsite for last night and tonight is Beechcroft Caravan Park in Blackwell.  A beautiful site that has just undergone a £400k upgrade,  everything is shinny new and looks wonderful, we have a pitch on the top tier looking over the Derbyshire Dales.  Our reason for choosing the site was its close proximity to the Monsal Trail,  although it is only 3/4 of a mile away we didn’t know that it was down a very steep track on the Pennine Bridleway – steep enough for there to be an advisory notice for horse riders to dismount, which means way to steep for us to cycle.

We successfully pushed our bikes down the bridleway and arrived at the start of the Monsal Trail.  Yet another former railway line, this one was the Midland Railway line running between Buxton and Bakewell.    The trail has been open was years but a couple of years ago the four closed tunnels were re-opened and lighting put in. All together there are 6 tunnels, the longest two are just over 500 metres each – really spooky to ride through as despite the lights you cannot see from one end to the other.

Inside Headstone Tunnel

The whole 17 mile trail is off road and runs through some stunning countryside, the views over the dales from the viaducts are amazing. Probably the best part is the view from Headstone Viaduct below Monsal Head, way to deep for me to be looking over the edge. Although a former railway line, as always there is a gradient. We made a slight miscalculation in that we started at the highest end of the trail. Therefore a wonderful run down to Bakewell but a slight uphill all the way back.

We stopped for coffee and cake at Hassop Station just into the return leg to build up the energy levels for the climb. The station buildings have been converted into a cafe, book shop, bike hire and restaurant.  Possibly the best and biggest piece of pistachio and apricot flapjack ever and also the purchase of a book with “30 Traffic Free Cycle Rides” so that should keep us going for a while.  After our break we set back out and the trail had gotten really busy with walkers and cyclists, whereas on our way down we hadn’t seen more than 1 or 2 people the whole way.

We were  nearly at the end of the trail when a small puppy escaped its lead and came chasing after us. Iain shouted me to stop, I did so a little too quickly and I was off.  A fair part of my knee is  still down on the trail, we have spent half an hour removing the gravel that I brought back in my leg, however the bandage does look impressive 🙂   Home tomorrow morning before any more ailments (still smothered in midge bites that are not going down) but loving Yorkshire and Derbyshire for the brilliant holiday they supplied. As Arnie says – “we’ll be back”.

The Longdendale Trail

Both Iain and the awning successfully made it off the roof last night. The awning is now stowed under the van, will try and jam it in tomorrow when we move on. Iain suffered no ill effects from his stint on the roof – I on the other hand am smothered in midge bites several of which have been swelling beautifully all day.

This morning we woke up to an absolute scorcher of a day, so we took the bikes off and went out to find the Longdendale Trail. The trail was only a mile from the campsite but the direct route meant us cycling down the Woodhead Pass. As its like the highway to hell with so many lorries and no pavements or hardshoulders it was never going to be worth the risk for us. Instead we took the diversion up the Pennine Way (pushed the bikes) down a flight of steps (carried the bikes) and through a small wood (wobbled on the bikes) then finally cycled across the dam to reach the trail.

Longdendale Trail

Woodhead reservoir

All worth the effort as the trail is on the opposite side of the reservoirs to the road and totally traffic free, brilliant views of the five reservoirs along most of the route. Just over 15 miles in total its on the former Hadfield to Woodhead train track bed. First off we went down to the Woodhead Tunnel end. All closed up now and where the trail ends so we then turned round and headed down to Hadfield at the other end. The trail is part of the coast to coast Trans Pennine Trail, the Pennine Way also crosses it so its really busy with walkers on both routes plus cyclists.

 

No cafes on route so we made do with our picnic and were then back at campsite early afternoon. I am currently feeling totally vindicated in wimping out on the cliff edge part of our hike the day before yesterday – the yellow sea king rescue helicopter has just spent half an hour winching someone off from that cliff.

Half way on the Longdende and a bit hot

Tomorrow its time for our last move and we are going further down into the Peak District near Buxton. We have 2 days there and our plan is to get the bikes off and ride a trail we have been wanting to do for ages – The Monsail, before its time to head home.

A day out in a tunnel

For our day of rest today, we did a trip in a tunnel! Iain’s choice, how better to spend the sunniest day of the holiday so far than in a tunnel? The tunnel in question was to be fair no ordinary tunnel, it was Standedge Tunnel at Marsden on the Huddersfield Canal. Its 3.2 miles long and is the longest, highest and deepest canal tunnel in the UK (and, except a slightly longer one in France, in the world). The boat trip right through in one direction takes 3 hours – luckily we did 500 metres and that took 40 minutes for the round trip. All I can tell you is its very dark, fairly cold, not that straight and a bit damp. Worth a visit? Yes for £4 its an experience and the cafe outside sell lovely coffee and cakes.

There was a converted mill building on the site which house a canal exhibition and the whole top floor was a craft shop and workshop, more to my liking. We have passed over the A62 before and didn’t realise that Marsden even had a town centre as such, its just off the canal and worth a visit.

To get to Marsden we went over Holme Moss where the roads are still covered in TDF slogans. The summit is at 1719 ft above sea level and the views stretch for what must be 60 miles. We saw at least 50 cyclists emulating last weekend trekking up the hill, we made do with sitting smugly at the viewpoint with a coffee discussing whether we could ride up it and if so how quickly (we so couldn’t really but its ace to pretend).

TDF graffiti

Holme Moss – still full of cyclists

Holme Moss views

Also on route was Holmfirth and we had intended to stop and have a look at Compo and Cleggy’s haunts, the cafe etc. However we met another campervan couple who told us they went the day before. They went on an organised coach tour as all the places on the tv series are spaced out over 8 miles and most of the buildings you couldn’t recognise without being told what they were as they are radically altered just for filming days.  So that one was out as didn’t really seem worth seeing something we wouldn’t know what it was without someone telling us, type of thing!

Our day finished back at campsite where all was going smoothly until we tried to wind in the awning – its not going to happen. Somehow its stuck so Iain is currently on the roof trying to remove it, fingers crossed Iain does get off the roof at some stage this evening before he gets eaten alive by midges.

The Black Peak District

Wednesday morning we were away from Selby fairly handy as we wanted to spend our last week in the Peak District. We took the most direct, if least scenic, route over the M62 then down the M1 to the Woodhead Pass. Much quicker trip than we estimated and we arrived in Crowden by lunchtime.

We are back with C&CC at their Crowden site. A real little gem that takes 20 vans and another 20 or so tents. Lots of Duke of Edinburgh groups in and out but still fairly peaceful. Its just a few yards back from Crowden Reservoir and the Pennine Way passes the top end. Nothing else around, no pubs or shops for miles but luckily we had stocked up for the week on the way over.

Ready to climb a mini mountain on the Pennine Way

This morning we decided that as were on the Pennine Way and it was a blue skies day we really should take advantage and go for a bit of a) stroll in Iain’s opinion b) hike in my opinion. We bought a copy map sheet from the wardens and headed out just after 9.30 in a northerly direction. An easy amble for the first 1/2 mile then things got a bit steeper. It was literally like steps carved out of the hillside and it went on and on until we reached a plateau and then more climbing! The views are incredible in all directions and the track is right under the Manchester flight path, the planes coming in seemed nearly close enough to reach out and touch. Other than a few sheep and some ravens it really does feel like being a million miles from civilisation.

The Pennine Way

After 2 hours we were at 1750 ft and the path went way to close to a sheer drop for me. To be frank I bottled it there was no way I was risking the next bit, not so much the going up that bothered me, more the how the hell do you get back down! There was another path to our left (obviously trodden by the other like minded cowards) so we took that for a while out onto Middle Edge Moss at the southern end of Saddleworth. We stopped for a half hour lunch break near Chew Reservoir then started the long haul back. Its so much tougher coming down, a guy with two dogs raced past us making us look like a right pair of old slow coaches stumbling along. We had a few stops on the way down to admire the views over the Moors and catch our breathe as it was way too hot to be clambering around on rocks by mid afternoon.

Made it back to buy a celebratory Magnum lollies by 3 o’clock and now sat watching other walkers on their way down, most of whom long somewhat fresher than us. Tomorrow is definitely a rest day.

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Selby-York-Selby bike ride

The bike path from Selby to York is 15 miles, it was going to be slightly longer as our campsite was a few miles out of town on a farm. We set off for town, I think the TDF has been sending subliminal messages to Iain that he is part of the Tour as he shot off at top speed. Managed to catch him up in town where we saw the first signs for the route. All good except there was a diversion to follow. I took the lead and we were doing really well until several miles on the sign ahead said Hull ( the sign behind us said York – ooops). So apparently I had taken a few wrong turns and Iain took over and found us a route back towards the intended cycle path.

This was one to cycle

Once we found Cycle Route 65 it was brilliant. Part of the Trans Penine Trail it followed a former rail track and was away from the roads. A gentle incline all the way but we saw this as a positive as it meant a decline going back. The cycle route goes right through York racecourse, a bit surreal as you cross the track, then a short section through a housing estate then just before you are in the city centre you pass Terry’s of York. An awesome building that is now closed up and for sale, hard to describe the scale other than to say it would dwarf most stately homes.

We arrived in York 21 miles after leaving the campsite and parked ourselves on a bench by the river just up from Rowntree Park. Time for a scoff of our picnic and a rest to ease the aching bones. We decided against traipsing into the city with bikes and thought we would aim for a leisurely ride back and a stop for a coffee.

The only place to stop was Naburn Station cafe. No longer a station its the house in the old station buildings. No one at the cafe but it was a ‘trust hut’, help youself to tea, coffee, cakes, ice-creams etc and just leave the money in a tube. The set up was brilliant, really eclectic with the hut looking like something from the Caribbean and the furniture in the garden like Central Perk withe sofas and garden chairs dotted around the side of the bike path (will post photos when we next have internet).

We left Naburn and the heavens opened – no coats of course so we rode as fast as we could between the tree covered sections to dodge the rain. After half an hour the sun was back and we made it back into Selby mid afterrnoon. A few miles later we were on the campsite, an absolutely brilliant ride that in the end totalled 41 miles. Well worth the effort to see bits of York other than the city centre and a fabulous cycle path made all the better by the amazing Naburn Station.

 

Naburn Station Trust Cafe – on the Selby-York cycleway

Whitby was wet

Sunday morning was a bit overcast. So we decided on a driving day and headed to Whitby. On arrival its ceased being overcast and instead became downright wet. A gentle stroll along the north cliff looking down over town for half an hour then we decided to head inland for some sunshine.

Yorkshire Moors are a fairly bleak landscape but on a misty day even more so. Not sure whether the cloud was low or the moors are high, either way at times it was just plain eerie. When the sun did pop out there is some stunning scenery. Grosmont is a bit picture postcard, especially as the steam train had just pulled in as we arrived. The roads over the moors are a tad challenging – even in our little campervan the narrow lanes, tight bends and very steep hills made for some fairground style driving at times. We skirted Goathland as we have been before and posed outside the Aidensfield landmarks as it was mid afternoon we were on the hunt for a campsite but not seeing anything at all.

We pulled over at the Hole of Horcum for a brief stop – an incredible natural amphitheatre (must be a mile wide). The blurb said it was formed by natural springs sapping away layers of limestone – or by a giant scooping out earth! We firmly believe the latter to be true :).

Finally found an ace CL just above Pickering. Marfit Head Farm had pretty much every thing in the space of 50 yards – donkeys, cows, goats, pot bellied pigs, ducks, the biggest scariest chickens we have ever seen and the facilities block in an old farm building that was like something in a 5 star hotel. And all for £11 – Iain is finding his Yorkshire roots and loving saving a quid or two.

This morning it was onto Pickering, a busy little market town that actually had a market on. We bought some scrummy looking bread and scones and went down to see steam trains of the NYM railway, the train for just leaving and the next one wasn’t a diesel so maybe next time. We had exhausted the town and market by lunchtime so went off to find somewhere to make lunch. Castle Howard signs appeared (home of Brideshead Revisited). Turn off the main road and step back 100 years, narrow roads through the estate with stone archways at each junction. We pulled into carpark and made some lunch before going for a look around. Sadly only the shops and. Cafe were free – £30 for the two of us to go in (“how much?”) so we gave that a miss and peeped over the wall instead.

Late afternoon and pitched up on a farm near Selby just South of York. Only us on site and its just about an ok site. Stopping purely so we can get the bikes off and make use of some the brilliant trails around this area tomorrow.

Pickering for the morning

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Scarborough – loving it

Sooner or later we  fully expect to have a day where nothing much happens, today wasn’t that day as we have just experienced Scarborough and absolutely loved it.  We walked from the campsite over the cliffs and took the steps down to the end of North Bay by the Sea Life Centre.  The overnight rain was just stopping and there were signs of the sun appearing a bit later.

North Bay

Scarborough Beach Huts

North Bay – totally not what we expected.  An enormous sweep of bay with just a handful of cafes and nothing else very ‘touristy’. The promenade runs along the bottm of a steep grassy bank with the hotels high above on the hill. Plenty of people wandering around and a few very nice brightly painted beach huts.  We came across the fantastic giant sculpture of Freddie Gilroy, by Ray Lonsdale, people were queueing up to sit their children on Freddie’s knee for a photo, not to be out done we joined the wait and took a good few of ourselves.

San & Freddie

Iain and Freddie Gilroy

When we reached the promontory under the castle we turned into South Bay and much more the Scarborough we expected.  Another massive sweep of bay but over half of it lined with arcades, shops and cafes.  The sun was out by now and so were the crowds, so we took our picnic down on the beach and enjoyed that holiday delicacy of sand in your butties whilst watching the donkey rides, it all felt a bit like a step back in time to the good old British seaside and none the worse for that.  After Iain had ably demonstrated his Yorkshire heritage with a display or ‘roll us your cap granddad’  we moved on to explore the other end of the promenade.

Roll us your cap grandad!

Scarborough Fair

We followed the bay along to Scarborough Spa, the Ocean Room is just amazing – a room without a roof that wouldn’t look out of place in a movie. Just behind is the oldest funicular railway in Britain so we took a short cut  up the cliff into town for 80p.  Rather than walk back along the promenade we aimed to go through town and have a look at the Grand Hotel (where Anne Bronte died) on the way. We were pleasantly surprised inside at how well it has been preserved – especially the two ballrooms. The town itself is very like most seaside towns lots of the High Street names but also lots of independents too, we especially liked Bar Street – a little cobbled traffic free lane with plenty of of things I could have been spending my money on had we not been beginning to flag slightly and to be honest be a dit daunted by the sheer numbers of people in the town by mid afternoon.

The Spa – Scarborough

As by now we were just slightly worn out and it was time to head back to camp, a rather long walk even though we cut out a great part by cutting across town rather than out along the promenades.  We had a stop off at a bakery where Iain bought himself 3 cakes to replace all the energy he had used walking today. A good few miles later and we arrived back, next door to camp is a large pub so we stopped off and treated ourselves to a couple of small Black Sheep beers – 8.5 miles since we left this morning we had earned it. Now its time to get the tv on and catch up with Le Tour for the evening.

POW camp then Scarborough

The Eden Camp museum is billed as ‘the only modern history theme museum of its type in the world’.  With a tag line that good and yet we have never heard of it we guessed it was going to be a little different.

Only £5.50 each to get in was a promising start, a former POW camp with 30 of the original huts still on the site, with each hut holding a exhibition of some sort.  The huts mainly contained recreated scenes of wartime from bombed out houses (complete with arm waving from rubble – with full mechanical noises from same),  air raid wardens on patrol, shops with rationing etc. etc.  To be fair lots of the props were very authentic, sadly most of the set ups were a bit overdone and the models were akin to shop window dummies without any character at all.  The blurb advertises they use movement, sound, light and smell to create authentic scenes – the main movement was nearly every scene had running water or flashing lights. A bit disappointing other than the highlight being an outside toilet – when you tried the door it only opened slightly and a voice shouted “Oi I’m in here” followed by the sound of a flush, worth visiting for that alone 🙂

For us the most interesting thing was the actual POW camp, sadly most of the history to that has been removed,  with the exception of one hut that house some of the letters and identity cards of the former inmates.

Time to move on and find somewhere to make a quick lunch, pulled into a layby with all the other gypsies – literally. As we stopped we saw that opposite us with 30-40 gypsy vans (including several of the old wooden horse drawn ones) and upwards of 30 horses all tied up alongside the busy A road. We had got caught in a traffic jam earlier following two horse drawn caravans and it would appear this is a big site for them right on the grass verge of the A64.

Eden POW camp

Onwards to Scarborough and our campsite for the next 2 nights. We are a couple of miles out of town on the C&CC site. Its huge, over 300 pitches and vast majority in use. We are a few hundred yards from the cliff top so walked over to have a have a look before settling back in the van as the heavens opened. Now blowing a gale and raining quite hard – forecast is for this to blow over tonight so fingers crossed it does as we have a cliff walk planned for tomorrow.

A day against route of the TDF

Leaving Hawes fairly handy this morning we decided to have a leisurely drive around the Dales National Park with a destination of Thirsk in mind for an overnight stop.

We took the B road which runs alongside the River Wharfe as its shown as a scenic route. Very much so, and probably even better when you aren’t driving against the TDF traffic.  A fairly narrow road in places and some very tight squeezes of us and other motorhomes between dry stone walls. When it wasn’t other motorhomes it was packs of cyclists (and wow can they go fast even coming up hill towards you).  Again though one of the main joys was driving the route and seeing how every village and farm seems to be taking up the TDF with relish with bunting, flags and painted bikes, even the planting in window boxes is either yellow or red and white – really fantastic atmosphere building already,  We stopped for a coffee break and to recover our nerve on Greenhow Hill which has the most incredible views for miles after mile in both directions.  As we started down hill we met Team Cofidis coming towards us on mass – quite daunting to see them all in red hurtling along, however they gave us a wave and a few smiles so we may be supporting them purely for that.

Somehow we lost track of our route at this point and rather than being in Ripon we were actually in Bedlam (appropriate) so we changed tact and decided on Knaresborough for the night.  As the TDF is hitting here too its was pretty chaotic so we were unsure if we would get on the site, as we pulled up outside we saw the “site full” sign.  Having experienced these signs at CC many times we know they seem to have very little meaning so we drove in and popped into reception – low and behold they aren’t full and we are happily pitched up on site.  Another typically good CC site, this one is a little different in that it has a small Bistro on site, good facilities and large pitches so it will do nicely as home for us for one night.

We popped out to stretch our legs earlier and came across Nidd Gorge, which follows the meandering River Nidd with over 15 miles of footpaths through forests and farmland.  A very special place where you coukd walk for hours and not see another soul, signs at the entrance told us there were deer around so we went for a walk to see what we could spot. Footpaths are fairly well carved along through the trees and in places there were boardwalks alongside the river. We managed a few miles but alas no deer although we did hear woodpeckers. Back at camp for some tea and an earlyish tonight – tonorrow we have a full day out planned at a modern history theme museum before its finally time to head for the coast for the weekend.

 

Our Le Grand Tour

What could be better than a gentle 4.5 mile stroll in the Yorkshire Dales? We put on boots, grabbed rucksacks and set off to follow a mapped walk around the River Ure Valley, starting at Hawes, taking in a little bit on the Penine Way then heading over farmland to check out the creamery before back to town.

Nearly home – A quick stop with a little cheese at the Wensleydale Creamery

Passing the ‘bike on the hill’ again

A slight detour to see the Hardraw Force (waterfall), not at its best due to the lack of rain but still worth seeing

Hardraw Church crochet bikes getting into the swing ready for Le Tour

More Tour bikes and ‘King of the Mountain’ sheep in the villages

Up Bluebell Hill at the start of the climb

Looking very like Wallace and certainly toothy

 

 

Ee bah goom – we made it to Yorkshire

Finally said goodbye to Lancashire and headed through the lanes to Yorkshire this morning.  Took the scenic route on the B6480 through Low and High Bentham,  brilliant for the stunning views over to Lowgill and Great Harlow hills,  not so brilliant with coming across a speeding tractor on every bend as its harvest time.

First stop of the day was at Ingleton a small village on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park where we spied Seasons Bakery, a truly amazing bakery making all their own bread and cakes. We opted for an assortment of cakes and bread and then it was on to one of our absolute favourite holiday activities – a discount outdoor shop!  Daleswear Outdoor shop was our little bit of retail heaven. Two enormous floors of camping and general outdoor clothes and gadgets all with massive sale discounts. An hour later we dragged ourselves out with a pair of sunglesses with 5 different sets of coloured lenses for Iain (essential) and a rather nifty bag to hold showering and toiletries for me )not essential but cheap and rather cute).

Time to get back to sightseeing so we headed up the panoramic B6255 which really is one of the most spectacular roads we have travelled on. Within a mile or so we came across White Scar Caves and decided to have a pit stop and debate whether to take the tour. A quick look around and we gathered it was £9 for an 80 minute tour taking in over a mile of caves. Being cold, deep,  underground, on slippery rocks and having to slither through gaps did not appeal to me in the slightest, so left Iain to do the tour. Nearly an hour and a half later he re-emerged and said was a good tour if slightly too long. It’s the longest show cave in England and seems to do a roaring trade, there is a cafe and a tic tacky gift shop on site which seemed to be a major draw for the bus loads of school kids visiting.

After a brief shower the sun was coming back out so it was time for an afternoon walk and somewhere we had been planning to visit since day  of our trip, Ribblehead Viaduct (also known as Batty Moss), just a few miles up the road.  In the middle of nowhere its made more beautiful be its surroundings of mile after mile of Yorkshire Dales with hardly a building insight – except the pub a few hundred yards away which can of course be forgiven. Built in 1870 it’s 440 yards long and 104 ft high, the footpath takes you right up to the base of the arches just a few hundred yards from the road. Another stunning, and free, visitor attraction in Yorkshire that is really worth going to.

By now it was late afternoon so we though about looking for somewhere to stay. The next town we came to was Hawes, looking very ready for the Tour De France next weekend, it even had a white chalk bicycle on the hill on the way in.  Nearly every house in town is covered in bunting and flags for the tour, very many have bikes hung on walls, roofs or even strung between buildings. As we were driving through we remembered there was a CC site about 30 miles away so grabbed the book for a look, as we opened the Yorkshire section the first site we saw was in Hawes! quick turn around and back into town, brilliant site less than a couple of minutes walk from town so we are booked in for the next two nights. This is the home of Wallace and Gromits favourite cheese – so tomorrow we hit the Wensleydale Cheese factory to see if it makes our ‘faces look all nice and toothy’ too 🙂

Hawes ready for The Tour

Whey hey Morecambe

Well we didn’t actually follow the plan and head inland to Yorkshire.  Instead we headed slightly back whence we came to Morecambe. Not somewhere that is at the top of our ‘must see’ list but a lovely sunny day seemed to call for a visit to the seaside and if it was good enough for Eric we thought it would be ok for a few hours.

First impressions were good, a long stretch of promenade from Hest Bank right through Morecambe to Heysham. No more or less run down than most seaside towns, in all honesty slightly better than many towns we have visited. We drove from one end to the other and all looked good so we parked up a little out of town and walked along the seafront to find one of the best known sight seeing draws in Morecambe, the statue of Eric.  Local tourist literature said that people queue for a photo with him,  no queues today so we joined him for a few bars of “Bring me sunshine..” and a full set of photos before letting the only other couple waiting have their chance.

Morecambe Bay was pure sand right over the estuary to the Lake District when we arrived, with the hour the sand was totally covered by the sea. Apparently you can walk across the 7 miles to the Lake District but we gave that one a miss as didn’t fancy needing to be rescued if we got the times wrong. So nextstop ice-cream and coffee break at the cafe on the promenade, not good at all so we gave up with that and went back to find the van and move it right up to Hest Bank so we could cycle the promenade length in both directions.

Really good cycle path all the way along, very wide so no problems with walkers or buggy users. There are many art installations all the way along based on the Tern project, added to that was the beautiful art deco facade of the Midlannd Hotel which does make for a very pleasant visit and a reasonable 10 mile bike ride. We came across the start of the Way of the Roses cycle track, 170 miles from the start to Bridlington – after very little debate we decided to give that a miss but may look for the end when we get to the East coast.  The cycle path goes either through or round a rather nice set of fountains – fairly sure it goes round but Iain felt it would be good to go through and cool down a little, so he did.

Lunch on the beach at Bolton-le-Sands before heading back to camp. We plan to move on tomorrow, this time we will make more effort and actually go – hopefully.

A Brief Encounter with Carnforth

Summer holidays are here, plans were to either visit Scotland or Ireland for 2 weeks of touring and cycling. Discussions on a)midges on the west coast of Scotland and b) the costs of ferries to Ireland resulted in a change of plan at the last minute so now its destination North England and visit some of the places we usually drive through on our routes further North.  We are aiming to see a fair bit of Yorkshire and the North East coast and hopefully find  good cycling on some of the disused former railway lines into York.

We left home yesterday in the first rain we had seen for a while, not a good start to a summer holiday, but by the time we were North of Liverpool on the M6 the sun was starting to break through as by early afternoon we were at our first campsite. Laverick Hall CL, 3 miles off the M6 inland from Carnforth. An absolute stunner of a site, just ten pitches well spaced out and views to the left over Morecambe and to the right over Morecambe Bay to the Lake District.  Despite  being able to see the motorway from the site there is no noise at all, the odd car goes up or down the lane but other than that its perfectly peaceful.

So when in Carnforth there is only to thing to do and that is to visit the station where a Brief Encounter was filmed. We walked down to the town from the campsite this morning, about 4 miles but all on quiet country lanes with the exception of the bridge crossing the motorway. We fully expected some sort of visitor centre at the station and to be charged accordingly. We were therefore really surprised to find the Heritage Centre on the platform was totally free. First stop was coffee and cakes at the Brief Encounter Refreshment rooms on the platform, where several scenes in the film were shot.  Beautifully restored 10 years ago to its 1940’s glory the only thing missing was Alec and Laura being sat at one of the tables. There is even a bakery on the station, worth a visit for the Refreshment Rooms alone, one of the best cafes we have visited for a long time.

Behind the cafe there are several exhibition rooms relating to Carnforth in the War and of course to Brief Encounter. The film is played in a small cinema on a continuous loop (again free to enter) and there is more train buff memorabilia than you could shake a stick at. Last but not least of course is the station clock, a must have photo. The souvenir shops sold everything Brief Encounter from tea towels to sticks of rock and postcards. We were going to buy the film but it was double the cost than in a supermarket so we stuck with our usual souvenir of a fridge magnet.

This has to be one of the best free visits we have found and we spent a good couple of hours wandering around before heading back (4 miles up hill) to the campsite. Our plan now is to head into Yorkshire tomorrow and continue our train theme with a visit to the Ribblehead Viaduct.

Wirral Way

Another weekend, must mean its time to get a few more miles on the camper and the bikes. Saturday morning and loaded up in double quick time with our fabulous new CYKELL bike rack. No more heaving the bikes above our heads, just snap in on the towbar and the bikes are wheeled up the ramp and locked on within minutes.

Destination – Chester again, this time a few hundred yards over the border from Wales at Thornleigh CL campsite. Just off Sealand road but a million miles from traffic noise. The campsite is next to the farm and well sheltered behind the trees, the main source of noise being the many horses kept on the livery, well that and a constant hum of helicopters taking off and landing at the nearby Hawarden airfield. The site was busy with 5 other units on site but its a big area so plenty of room with the next van a good 50 ft away from us. We sat out the thunder and lightening storms in the afternoon tucked away in the van with a good book (The Gone Girl – fantastic read) and plenty of coffee and biscuits. By early evening the sun was shinning so we ventured out for a walk up Ferry Lane to the river. From the bridge we could clearly hear the Chester Rocks concert – a free listen to the The Feeling – before heading back in glorious evening sunshine.

Sunday dawned a little windy but the sun was breaking through the clouds so we popped the bikes off and decided to head up the bike path at the end of Ferry Lane and then onto the new Dee Marshes cycle path heading over to the Wirral. Traffic free except a road crossing through to meet the bike path at Hawarden and onto Cycle 568. We picked up our cycling buddy, Phil who joined the path at Connah’s Quay and headed over the Rifle ranges through to Little Neston. By now the sun was fully out and the cycle paths were amazingly busy, of the hundreds of cyclists out for the day we asked the two who were lost which way to go to the Wirral Way, We could have followed the sign, no lets follow their “shortcut”. This resulted in a loss of route but luckily a dogwalker put us back on track and we picked up the Wirral Way in a mile.

The Wirral Way is again totally traffic free, according to the signs they are widening the route this year – not surprised as its really popular with mainly cyclists but plenty of walkers too. Mostly tramac but a few rough spots that have been filled with gravel so an easy pedal all the way to West Kirby where we parked up on the promenade for a quick butty stop sitting watching the windsurfers and sailing boats. By now the sun was well and truly shinning and it was getting warmer so we decided against plan A of continuing to New Brighton and decided to start back mindful that the breeze that there was (head wind apparently) was against us all the way home.

A pleasant ride back down the Wirral Way until we found the spot with the gravel again. Not so pleasant as I hit the ridges at an angle and a rather spectacular “off” followed, obviously with several spectators! Luckily just a grazed bottom and a few bruises and a touch of bruised pride. By now we had covered just over 30 miles so legs were tiring all round. We decided on a refreshment stop at the Net’s Coffee shop on the bike route just outside Little Neston.  The cafe is on a small lane with no access for cars, full of cyclists with bikes parked everywhere. It overlooks the marshes and I am sure the recent opening of the Dee Marsh cycle route has boosted their business and its not surprising, a very cycle friendly with tons of outside tables and lots of cakes as well as meal and sandwiches – we will be going there again. So tracing our route back we arrived back at camp 42 miles later – our longest ride to date and to be fair other than my few war wounds felt remarkably well for the effort.

Monday morning the sun was back after some more thunder and lightening overnight so we left the bikes and aimed for the Chester. A four mile walk straight up Sealand Road past the racecourse and we were in the city for a browse around the shops and a wander along the rows. Despite it being a Monday Chester was awash with tourists as always, a few heavy downpours each followed by the sun coming back out doesn’t seem to damper the spirits of the cameras as many hundred of visitors on tours with guides dressed as Roman’s. We treated ourselves to lunch then jumped on a bus back to the end of the lane from the campsite where we sat out the remainder of the weekend in the sunshine.

Back in the Peak District

Having loved our 2 day jaunt into the area a couple of weeks ago we came back with the bikes to try out a couple of the cycle trails.

Staying at Whitehouse Farm Campsite in Heathcote, a couple of miles outside Hartington village. Campsite is a CL, very small with 5 large caravans onsite all parking across the pitches. We squeezed into the top corner, awning out and mock Moroccan mat down and spent Saturday afternoon sat in the blazing sunshine – probably as close as we are going to get to being in Morocco any time soon.

Sunday morning we unloaded the bikes and headed out to cycle the Tissigton Trail.  Being a former railway trackbed its apparently reasonably level and runs between Parsley Hay and Ashbourne, all off road on a surfaced trail. We joined at Hartington where we were impressed with the massive car park, loos and even a special car-park for horse boxes with water for the neds too. First thing we noticed was it wasn’t actually flat, a slight gradient down all the way to Ashbourne so we whizzed down in no time at all.  On route are a couple of cafe stops and a cycle hire / repair shop and the most amazing views across the  countryside. Very many people out on the path on bikes, walking and a fair few on horses too, lots of picnics going on at the side of the trail and a fair few cherry red faces on those going in the uphill direction. The last part takes you through a former railway tunnel, really eerie as there is a vague sound of a train whistle behind you, so whilst you know there cannot be a train you cannot help but keep looking behind you.

A brief stop at Ashbourne to fill up on Apple-turnovers and strawberries for the energy boost we needed to tackle the return trip.  Slightly harder going – into the wind and up hill, I was considerably peeved when passed by a fella who must have been in his 80’s but then saw his bike was electric. Just past the village of Tissington we spotted a landrover off road club having an event so its was time to chuck the bikes in the grass, get out the butties and half an hour stop for lunch whilst watching them throw land-rovers off the side of a quarry – which allowed allowed our bottoms to ease their aching a little at the same time.

Tissington Trail

Our light at the end of the tunnel

Rest break on the Tissington Trail

Back at Hartington we decided to leave the last part of the trail for the next day so were back at the campsite ready for a sunny snooze with our first 26 miles under our belts.  With weather that would not go a miss in the Med we had tea sat outside and watched a million grass flies merrily hovering around the caravan next door – not sure what it was about us but luckily they stayed away from us.

Monday and unbelievably the sun was still shinning so we headed back out to complete the last couple of miles from Hartington up to Hurdlow. This time we were tackling the uphill gradient first so we knew it was downhill coming home which always makes life seem better.  At Hurdlow we considered continuing over on the Penine Bridleway, but to do that needed to cycle a couple of miles on the A515 first, as we got to the road a couple of quarry lorries thundered past so we gave that up as a bad job and turned around and followed the path back.  At Parsley Hay there is a small cafe, bike hire and gift shop so we stopped for refreshments. We considered buying a knitted bike?? Also took a fancy to a tandem tricycle with the biggest basket in the world on the back – our future has 3 wheels 🙂

Woolly bikes!

Started back towards the campsite but the High Peaks Trail looked too inviting so we detoured onto this. A much narrower trail but again a former railway flatbed, well surfaced and seemingly flatter. We decided to do a couple of miles but before we knew it we were half way down the trail at Minninglow. Here there is an amazing railway embankment that is actually Grade II listed. Looks like a stone wall from a reservoir and runs in an arc around the valley, perfect place for a butty stop before heading back and adding a further 25 miles to our total. Much talk then on what to do with the afternoon, walk into Hartington village, cycle a bit more or just sit and snooze – the latter won for the day, so another lazy afternoon in the sunshine was calling until I heard it was time to learn to use the new bike bar! Our recently fitted new bike bar sits on the tow bar and is therefore low enough for us both to put the bikes on and take them off. Hence I now have to share what is most definitely a ‘blue’ not a ‘pink’ job.  After a quick lesson I demonstrated with ease how to load – now just keeping fingers crossed they are still with us on arrival at home.

Minniglow Grade II railway embankment

The High Peaks Cycle route

Pedalling hard on the High Peaks

Tuesday is home time, but first a quick stop in Hartington village. Chocolate box pretty with a locally famous cheese shop so would be rude not to stop off and buy some. As always locally famous means reasonably expensive but everything looked too good to resist so with a small wedge of pineapple stilton and a block of fig and almond wedge to go with it we headed towards Monsal to have a look at the next trail we fancy riding, the Monsal Trail. As it was a bit misty we decided against cycling today and instead went up to Monsal Head, spectacular views down the vale and over the viaduct. Loads of people walking the trail which does make you a bit green with envy but will save that one for another day. The route home took us through Buxton and over the moors on the A54 to Congleton, we stopped off for a quick lunch break at the picnic spot and then had half an hour at Spinney Motorhomes, just to see if there was anything we needed. This obviously excluded a new motorhome – agreement reached before we opened the doors. Having treated ourselves to a new kettle for the van we were home late afternoon and already checking our campsites for another visit into the Peaks as soon as we can fit it in.

Tribbys and the Derbyshire Dales

Thursday morning and heading for the Motorhome show in Peterborough for our annual date with the tribe known as the ‘Tribby’ers”.  This hardy bunch all own Trigano Tribute panel vans and we came into their ranks when we owned our previous van, a Tribute 550 and we found a brilliant website and forum dedicated to this campervan and made many new friends from their ranks.

For the last 5 years members of the forum have met up at motorhome shows throughout the country to discuss the pro’s and cons of the van, show off modifications, help fix problems and then at the end of the day sit down with a few drinks and watch the entertainment provided by a few of the more rambunctious members aka Brian. This year the first of two meets was scheduled at the Peterborough show so we booked and kept our fingers crossed we weren’t going to get flooded out as we had the previous year.

Arrival at the showground and for a change the sun was shinning, rather than negotiate our way around the site amongst 3000 odd campervan pitches we spotted Stuart and Ann in their Tribby and followed them straight through, despite the kindly marshal trying to send them one way and us another. Within minutes of arrival chairs were out and in the sunshine and we sat caught up with the friendly faces of 14 Tribby’ers and a couple of Pilote’ers and their travels since our last meet.

Friday morning and time to visit the show – the heavens opened – and continued to do so for the day. Not to be put off we donned our wellies and rainhats and trudged around for a couple of hours. Iain was very taken with a new motorhome, no not just any motorhome, a top of the range Hymer at a shade under £76,000. When we heard the price I showed my “feeling faint’ face but not to be deterred the poor salesman put on his best pitch, offered Iain a seat and spent at least 20 minutes selling the benefits of what was to be fair a real stunner of a motorhome. I made an exit and stood outside giving Iain the universal gesture of “get out we ain’t buying” for several minutes before he accepted defeat.

Saturday and the sun was back so it was back to the show for a better look around, avoiding expensive Hymers and anything else with a price tag over £5.99.  We limited our buying spree to a couple of mats and some cereal bowls then headed back to the Tribby carroll for mid afternoon ready for the main event – the circle of sun chairs, several bottles of plonk (courtesy of Jan and Phil who organise the meets) and some indepth discussions on everything from miles per gallon, dog shows, best campsites and how best not to work if you own a campervan as their are too many places you want to go and visit.

Sunday morning and we decided to head off to the Derbyshire Dales for a couple of nights on the way home. Sat Nav took us on a extraordinary route back and forwards across the A52 and then through the centre of Nottingham, roads were quiet though so we made it to our C&CC site just outside Ashbourne for lunchtime and spent a leisurely afternoon in the sunshine.

Monday morning the sun was cracking the flags and the warden gave us some detailed walks in the area. Boots on, rucksacks packed and we aimed for a little 2 hour walk before lunch. Really well written walk instructions but think we failed to read the distance or time on the one we had picked. The route was called the Nene Valley and took us on a route across farmland and over the dales.  Our only slight concern was the sign on a gate “Bull in Field”, never quite sure whether there really is we hesitated for a bit, then decided to make a run for it, half way across we heard a loudish animal call, relief was not the word when we realised it was a donkey!

After 3 hours we were just about to arrive in Ashbourne and we had somehow lost the route. So we stopped in the Gingerbread cafe for a butty and chips and decided we would take the scenic circular walk back, it couldn’t be that far surely. To cut a long walk short – it was a bloody long way. If we read once “continue over a couple of meadows” we read it many more times than we wanted to. How long can a short walk take? The route followed the path of the river Henmore mainly across meadows until we arrived at the tiny hamlet of Atlow and then up hill, up more hill and just to finish even more hill. Just over 7  1/2 hours after we started we hobbled back into the campsite just before 5.30pm, luckily the shop was open so Iain was able to purchase a creme egg and a Magnum lolly, both of which were apparently essential to prevent him passing out from fatigue.

Home today was uneventful except for a slight detour to the Venetian Canal Marina in Cheshire. It sounded like something pretty amazing – it was just a canal marina with a lot of narrowboats, nothing Venetian about it at all.

Chester

Another weekend, more sunshine and despite our intention to have a weekend at home by Saturday night we were thinking of a couple of nights somewhere close at hand to get out with the bikes and walking boots. Netherwood Touring Site looked like it would tick all the boxes, adult only, 3 miles out of the city centre, right on the side of the canal towpath and handy for a couple of pubs.

The campsite is in the former, very large, garden of the owners. Only 16 pitches but well spread out and probably room for at least another 20 pitches. We were given a spot right at the top a couple of feet away from the canal so we could sit and watch the narrow-boats potter by.  Sunday afternoon we decided on a quick walk and followed the canal path down towards Chester, when we reached Chemistry Locks we realised we had walk out this far from Telford Locks a few months ago so our aim to walk the canal was growing if in small stages.

Monday dawned sunny but chilly. Not to be deterred we took the bikes down and head off out in the opposite direction to the city along the Shropshire Union Canal. For the first mile or so a good tarmac towpath, followed by a grass / dirt path which was at best ok. We managed to cycle along for a mile or two but then headed off onto the lanes and followed cycle 48 as far as Tattenhall. The weather had definitely turned chilly and the other half of the duo was getting a bit too cold so it was time to stop for a teabreak. Beautiful Cheshire, the land of country houses and ye olde tea shoppes – ah no we stopped at a tea wagon in the yard of the concrete merchant just outside the local rubbish tip – top quality choice of stop – not!

Back to the van for a warm up but by the time we got there the sun was back out. So after a quick lunch we headed out for a walk to the garden centre where I was promised a decent coffee and cake to make up for the builders yard. Only a mile or so from the site but working up a good appetite for coffee and cake – to find the cafe door shutting as we arrived.  As a last resort we headed back out an hour later to the Cheshire Cat for tea, good food followed by an even better gooseberry crumble then only a 5 minute walk back to the van.

This morning it was time to head home but we decided to take  a walk into Chester first, we followed the canal path into the city centre and stopped off for a quick drink in Central Perk – loving a bit of NY in the middle of Chester. Back to the site via a few cycle shops from where we resisted any shopping.

Weekends near home are definitely the way ahead, there in under an hour, cheap as chips on fuel and seeing so much more of the area we usually just drive straight through on the way to somewhere else.

http://www.netherwoodtouringsite.co.uk/

RAF Cosford

Nearly time for home so yesterday we headed up through the Cotswolds and agreed our final stop would be Telford so we could visit RAF Cosford.

Our last campsite is Severn Gorge just on the edge of Telford, its a small campsite for 10 vans set amongst quite a large bungalow park. Fully serviced pitch (meaning we have running water and drainage on the pitch for the uninitiated) and a couple of massive RV motorohomes parked up by us. Very peaceful with the exception of last night as we went to sleep something was doing a raid on our roof. Sounded like a herd of squirrels crawling around, neither of us was going outside to check what it actually was, sometime you would just rather not know.

It was only 20 minutes to drive down to RAF Cosford, we arrived half an hour before it opened so brewed up in the van and watched with glee as the school buses started dropping off coach loads of over excited 7 and 8 year olds., so it was going to be a noisy visit for sure.

On the theme of entrance fees (as we always are) it was £3.50 to park all day and entrance was free. No catches, no asking you for donations, its free and no one hassles you to buy anything – bargain of the trip.  There are four hangars and there is too much to see to really take it all in. From the Airfix Spitfire built by James May to Harriers to Chipmunks to Spitfires to Wessex, aircrafts on the ground in the hangars and even suspended from the ceilings.  The German Dornier 17 that crashed in the Battle of Britain and was recovered from the Goodwin Sands in the channel last year is currently being restored, though it currently still resembles a mass of metal and mud.

Its a full day out to see everything and when you get bored of aircraft there are displays and exhibitions along with lots of interactive displays. We supported the museum with a little light lunch in the Refuel Stop before Iain decided to head back in to try out the flight simulator and a 4D experience, suitably impressed with both we called it a day and headed back to camp for a last afternoon of holidaying before heading home in the morning.

Cycle path without bikes

The Bath to Bristol cycle path running outside the campsite site is a really frustrating sight when we don’t have our bikes with us. We considered hiring bikes but meant going into Bath first. So we settled on walking the path this morning.

The path is part of Cycle 4 and is on an old railway bed so its pretty much flat all the way. We set off at 8.30 am (sun was up so were we) and took a picnic as unsure how far we were going.  We have never seen so many cyclists anywhere, ever. Literally hundreds of people out cycling, its totally off road so plenty of families with children and just as many Bradley wannabes.  The path crosses over the River Avon several times and that was busy with rowers and the odd canoeist too.

After walking for what seemed like ages we stopped to check the time and see if it was time for butties – nope it was only 10 o’clock! So onwards we went and came across a rail-track beside the path. We knew there was a steam railway along the route so we carried on and arrived at Bitton. A little village where the steam railway is based, at the station a lovely cafe serving breakfasts, drinks and cakes to hoards of cyclists and a few walkers too.  Checked out the mileage and found we had done 5 and half miles – that’s great except we still need to turn round and walk back. We took a leisurely stroll and were back at campsite by lunchtime having walked a good 11 miles.  Incredible achievement for Iain in just 4 months –  he deserves a medal but got a strong cup of tea and a twix to celebrate instead.

Bath

From the campsite its a good 25 minute walk along the canal bank into the city. We crossed over the Bath to Bristol cycle way which runs on an old railway line for 13 miles between the cities – wished we had brought our bikes seeing cyclist after cyclist on the path.

Having forgotten our city map we walked the canal until we could see what appeared to be Bath type buildings and then cut up towards the city. Impressed with Bath is an understatement. Fabulous city, every building is worth stopping and looking at. Very busy with tourists but still had a really nice feel to the city of people just ambling around.

First stop was the river and Pulteney Bridge, lots of little shops on the bridge itself and steps down to the river where we walked to look back up towards the city. From there we walked up the hill in search of the Royal Crescent and the Circus. After wandering around for sometime we asked someone and it was slightly over to the right and we had missed it.

Royal Crescent

When we finally found The Circus we were approached by a guy dressed in costume from the 18th century.  He told us he was a guide and gave us a quick talk on the history of The Circus being built in 1754 (before Australia had been discovered) and designed by John Wood. All three segments of houses face into the centre and its impossible to appreciate the magnitude of the the houses until you stand in the centre looking round at them.  The houses were built as holiday homes and rented out for £140 for 6 weeks, they cost a bit more now and the guide told us Nicolas Cage had sold his house on The Circus for £4 million a couple of years ago.

Pulteney Bridge

From there we moved onto Royal Crescent, the photos we had seen of this do not do justice to it. We had to walk right down the hill to try and capture the whole crescent in a photo.  The sweep on houses look down on Bath and on a day like today with glorious sunshine it was stunning. There was one house right in the middle covered in scaffolding – but from the distance we had to go for the photo I don’t think you can really see it.

We stopped for lunch in the Royal Victoria Park and then walked back into the city for a bit more sight seeing. By now it was literally heaving but we headed down to the Baths. The Roman baths were covered in scaffold as renovations are being completed so we weren’t able to see it from the outside so we moved onto the Thermae spa bath where we were planning on having a spa bath in the roof top baths.  That idea went out the window when we saw the queue winding up the street of people with the same idea.

With out a doubt one of the loveliest cities we have visited. We didn’t even get time to do any shopping with our lists of things to see so yet another place we need to add to our “must come back to” list.

 

Bath Abbey

Royal Crescent

The Circus

Chalk horses and Stonehenge

This morning we woke up to a pea souper – fog so thick we could just about see the end of the pitch. Not to be deterred we plotted a couple of ‘chalk’ sites and set out first to see the Fovant Badges, being the badges that are left of over 20 army cap badges carved into the hills at the end of WW1.

The fog wasn’t improving when we arrived at Wilton, in fact it was worse. We pulled into the viewpoint layby and to be honest all we could see was fog – even the fence at the side of the road was shrouded in mist. We decided to sit it out and wait for the fog to clear – an hour and a half later we could just glimpse the hill, still no badges. Another 30 minutes and a very vague outline appeared of the Australian badge and as its largest (51m x 32m or half a football pitch) and we could only just see it we gave up and decided to look at them on Google instead. Seeing the photos its definitely something we will have another attempt at seeing next time we are down this way.

A check on that map showed we were nearish to Stonehenge so as fog was wrecking Plan A we formed Plan B and set off to see Stonehenge. On arrival a massive carpark, a massive visitor centre but no stone in view. We parked up and headed to the entrance to find it was £14.95 each to look at a pile of stones! Visitor centre built so there is no way you can have a peak without paying as its too far from the stones. Map out again and we worked out we could see it by driving down a road running near the end of the site. Well that would have worked if the road hadn’t been removed, totally erased and grassed over. However ten minutes later we were on the third road of the former triangle and a near perfect view as we drove past for free.

Fog still not lifting too much so we headed over Salisbury Plains. Iain hoping to see a tank or two but alas all we saw were a couple of landrovers and army troop carriers. Time to call sight seeing to a halt as we really aren’t seeing many sights.

We are now pitched up on the outskirts of Devizes at the C&CC site. Really lovely site on the edge of the canal and its very busy with over 50 vans on tonight already. Forecast is for the fog to lift tomorrow and the sunshine to be back so will hopefully resume our ramble through the west country with better visibility.

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Happy and sunny birthday me

Its my birthday so its my day to do things and the sun is shinning – good start. But, always a but, there is a Short Wave radio shop just up the road in Portsmouth, so first port of call is there and whilst I sit in the van himself does some ariel shopping.

From there its straight down to Gosport and the Hovercraft Museum. Its hard to describe, both the Princess Anne and Margaret are in the middle of the site, 2 hangars of smaller crafts and a multitude of medium sized craft dumped everywhere. Basically they have no money, not enough volunteers and a month on month lease. What they have achieved is amazing but it could be five times as good. We were allowed on the Princess Anne – a first for me despite it flying from Dover, and also on a couple of craft that have been in James Bond films. Cracking place to visit.

By now lunch was calling and we were looking for somewhere to stop. We aimed in the general direction of Southampton then into the New Forest. At the first sign mentioning food we did a quick turn and faced the unfamiliar road hazard of ponies – not just one or two, they were everywhere. Stopped off in Minstead at the Trusty Servant for lunch, very olde worlde and at £5.50 for 2 cokes very expensive. Lunch was good though and we pocketed several sauce sachets to break even!

In the village churchyard was the grave of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, someone had left an old pipe on the headstone – nice touch. Driving through the forest was incredibly beautiful, lots of open spaces as well as the forest and we gave up pointing out the gorgeous thatched cottages after a while as they appear to be the norm rather than the exception.

Time for a campsite and we are just outside Salisbury. Our campsite is literally 10 ft from Salisbury racecourse, sadly no racing today though. We are at one of the highest points in the area and there are beautiful views over mile upon mile of countryside.

All in all a very good birthday day – now its time to get the map out and plan a route for tomorrow to take in some of the chalk white horses of Wiltshire.

Thorney Island to Emsworth, and back

We are still at the C&CC site outside Chichester for another day so decided to have a quiet day with just a little walk this morning.

So as always our plans turn out slightly differently. We headed out of campsite and over to Thorney Island. The island is a military base but you can walk the perimeter so we started out down the east side. It was a bit cold and cloudy but a lovely  view over to the other islands and inlets that make up Chichester harbour. After half an hour we  got to the security gates for the army camp and there was a sign that the west gate was closed due to recent weather,  but we couldn’t decided whether to risk it as if we got there and it was still closed then it was 7 miles back.  So we gave up on that and cut straight across the island on the footpaths and made our way up to the village of Emsworth.  Quick stop off on route atthe Marina cafe for tea and toast as it was absolutely freezing bt then (spring had deserted us).

Emsworth is real picture postcard village by the sea. Lots of quirky little shops and loads of antique shops, a small harbour with every size of boat from rowing boats to something like a small palace by the sea  and plenty of people milling around as the sun had come out and withit plenty of people. From there we walked back to base at Southbourne and it was early afternoon and our quick walk had turned into 7 miles.

So that’s us for today, the sun is now coming out and were are going to have a lazy afternoon in the sun and cook the sausages and eggs we bought yesterday.

South coast

Our aim today was the south coast but no rush to get there so switched on Sat Nav then proceeded to ignore it for the most part and head where ever looked interesting.  Signs for Highclere Castle – well as we both love Downton Abbey thought we would try it.  Signs on the road showed it was closed, so we thought we might try and pop over the bridge and see if we could sneak a look at the castle. Got to the second gate and it didn’t look promising when 4 of the estate cars came trundling up the road full of workers who looked not a friendly as we may have hoped. So we sheepishly turned around and made our way back out.

We headed over the South Downs towards Petersfield and then happened across signs for Goodwood. A quick glance at the Goodwood races but nothing going on so we headed down to Goodwood Race Circuit. Lovely lady at the gate told us to go on in, park where we wanted and wander where we liked – all for free.  Its a wonderful place, there is an airfield on one side and the race circuit on the other.  We saw an American Aviation Harvard taking off as well as numerous small planes and helicopters. Pleasure flights were available but the helicopter looked like something you would fly on a hand controller so gave that one a miss.

On the circuit side we were treated to the sight of 20 odd Lotus there for a track day. No restrictions on standing at the edge of the pit lane or up on the top of the pit lane enclosure. Considering there was only the track day on plenty of people there just wandering around like us or having meals in the restaurant. 

From there it was a hop and a spit down to Chichester and our campsite just up the road on the coast.  Again we are on a C&CC site – this one is a bit like someones back garden, 30-40 pitches all fairly close together on a very big lawn.  Just outside the entrance is a wonderful farm shop selling all manner of fresh fruits, vegetables, home baked breads and rolls. We have just stocked up with fruit, olives and 1/2 a dozen duck eggs for our lunch tomorrow.

We now have wifi so have added photos from Oxford and Stratford on previous posts

On the weather front – ‘scorchio’ – hotter here than Spain, that will do nicely.

Destination Abingdon – failed due to floods

The original plan was to move down to the coast this morning. However, we woke up to brilliant sunshine and it seemed a waste to leave here when we wanted to see more of the area and the weather was so glorious, so we booked on for another night.

We decided on a walk and Iain fancied Abingdon. Slightly ambitious as its 7 miles up the river which is only 6 miles further than he has walked in the last 6 months, but you have got to love the positive attitude. So we packed up our rucksacks with butties and sweets and set off with a plan of walking there and getting a bus back.

The Thames is less than 5 minutes from the campsite and the path alongside was heaving with runners, walkers and cyclists and of course rowers on the river. We walked along to the first set of locks and the crowds thinned out a bit. By the second lock very few people about and the path got a bit muddy, another 200 yards and it was like a bog. I felt it would get better – wrong! When we could no longer see our boots, just clumps of mud on our feet, we admitted defeat and turned for home.

Stopped for butties and a rest at the locks and lock-keeper told us the path had been under 3 ft of water until last week. Also told us it gets worse not better so we made the right call to turn back.

Checked our route and we had walked 4 miles so no choice than to walk 4 miles back. As we did it got warmer and warmer. Its like summer in Oxford today. So end result we walked 8 miles, and bought back half the Thames on our boots, missed Abingdon but there is always a next time.

Rowers on the Thames

Back at campsite and it was so warm everyone outside their vans sunbathing, would have been rude not to get out there and join them with our milk bottle legs out. Iain currently sleeping off his mammoth walk and probably getting a little sunburnt at the same time – what holidays are all about 🙂

Oxford

Another day another tourist hotspot, this time Oxford. There is a park and ride 100 yards from the campsite into the city, took less than 15 minutes and so much easier than traipsing the camper in.

First impressions of the city for us ‘wow’. Quite a small city and easy to walk around as lots of the roads were pedestrianised. Had thought the university colleges would be outside the city centre but they are slap bang in the middle. So much to see and so many people with the same idea! Walking tours seemed popular but we found an open top bus and decided to make use of that to eat our picnic on whilst we were driven around the city. the most surprising thing was the gardens around many of the colleges, huge expanses of green in the middle of the city, Magdalen College even has a herd of deer in its park.

We walked around a few of the university colleges, many were closed to visitors as they had events on but you could still walk around the outsides or step into the quadrants. Lots of student walking around in the full garb with mortars on their heads – apparently they were full costume for their exams.

The city centre shopping is wonderful, every shop known to the High Street and hundred of smaller shops but mostly fairly expensive. We found the Covered Market and have to say it was the best bit. Proper old fashioned market stalls with butchers, hat shops, coffee and cake stalls, boutiques, hand made shoe shops and delicatessens, it was like time had stood still from the 1940’s.

We didn’t seeing anyone on the river punting which we had hoped to see. We did however begin the grasp just how many bikes there are in Oxford. Every railing, fence, tree had bikes chained to them. When they ran out of places to chain them to they just prop them against anything that doesn’t move.

By mid afternoon we were worn out so headed back to camp for a bit of sunshine and a well earned rest. This is a city we will be visiting again.

Open top bus tour

University Church St. Mary

New College

Radcliffe Camera

Christ Church College

St. Aldates

Christ Church

Bodleian Library

Bridge of Sighs

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As we like it

Well not much point in looking forward to a late get up at Chapel Lane site – the world and his dog all up and moving off site at 6.15 am. So as our plans for a lazy morning were scuppered we decided to head out early for some sight seeing.

A worthy fool?

Stratford Upon Avon seemed a good plan as a Park And Ride on the edge of town. We get there and there is a height barrier. Popped into the office to ask them to let us in – no can do. Explained we wanted to visit town and not take camper in and guy gives me a postcode for Sat Nav so we can park in town at the river. Seems odd to send traffic in but hey ho. Follow Sat Nav and car park has weight restriction of 2 ton – blast. Next door a private carppark on marina and its £8 – a bit over the top but by now just want to get out and see town so we coughed up.

From marina we walked over the river and up through town. Have to say very impressed with how well its kept, independent shops were lovely, plenty of ye olde worlde tea shoppes and loads of beautiful boutiques. Wandered up to the birthplace of Shakespeare and about to go in when we saw it was £18 each, as if! Peeled Iain off the floor and leant over the railings and took a couple of photos before heading back to the river for a coffee stop (with panetone as no scones).

We then visited the ‘very cobbled street Shakespeare walked (and tripped) on’ for free. But we were surprised that there is as much ‘Shakespeare was ‘ere’ as we imagined. The river walks are beautiful and it was busy with school parties heading over to the theatre and picnicking by the river. It was busy for a weekday in March, it must be heaving come summer so glad we saw it off season.

From there it was an hour to Oxford and we are now on the C&CC site on the edge of the city. There have been floods here recently so they have pitched everyone on the roadways around the site, it isn’t a problem at all as plenty of space. Nice little site behind a Go Outdoors store so we spent an hour having a browse but didn’t buy anything. From here there is a bus into town from the site entrance or its a 20 minute walk to the city centre along the river.

Weather is very warm today, enough for Iain to be sat outside the van with his newspaper a bit earlier. Blue skies all around and fingers crossed its with us now for the weekend.

Tomorrow Oxford – we have a map, a vague lists of places to see and a stunt kite shop to find.

Where Shakespeare trod

Stratford upon Avon

Shakespeare birthplace

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Baxter’s on the road again…

Finally we are back out in the camper, laden down with wet weather clothes just in case the forecast for sunshine turns out to be over optimistic.

Day 1 we left home just before lunchtime with a general aim of the Cotwolds. Headed over Nant Y Garth, through Llangollen and Shropshire. Stopped for a bit of lunch on a quiet lane over-looking the canal before heading down the M54 towards Birmingham.

Rain started early afternoon (fabulous forecast then? as always) so we decided to look for a site south of Birmingham to overnight on and move to Oxford tomorrow.
Staying at the CC site at Chapel Lane which is between Solihull and Redditch. On arrival they said they were fully booked as lots of people staying for Crufts! Iain did his ‘you better be joking’ speech and expression and 5 minutes later they found 6 spaces. Always worth arguing when CC say they are full as they always find spaces – it must be some weird warden game they like to play.

Next door to the site is a Transport Museum, Iain was looking excited with the prospect of a couple of hours in there but its not open for another 2 weeks. So making do with reading and listening to the hum of the motorway a mile away, with a cuppa and a lemon bakewell tart. And no the rain isn’t dampening our enthusiasm, loving being campervanners again.

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Chatsworth

Managed to get a weekend booking at Chatsworth caravan site, which is rarer than hens teeth.

On arrival we could see why, the campsite is lovely all you would expect with good facilties etc. But the main draw s you are actually at Chatsworth on the estate. The campsite is in a massive walled area, you are given a kkey which opens a gate and through this is a path to Chatsworth House, its the most imposing and stunning country pile I have yet to see.

It took us 10 minutes to walk along and we were pleasantly surprised to find it wasn’t too expensive to go into the house, well worthwhile as it was decorated for Christmas. The grounds, miles of parks and pathway, shops, greenhouses are all free though so we had a full day between them all, We found that the Christmas Fayre was on next day so we planned to come back and park Dora at the Fayre for a mooch around.

Day 2 we walked to Chatsworth Farm Shop. From the campsite it was footpaths over to the estate village of Edensor. We stopped off at the village church to see the grave of Kick Kennedy (sister of JFK and Marchioness of Hartington). From there its a short stroll to the farm shop which was amazing. Not sure there was any food we couldn’t have bought. Every meat imaginable, cheeses by the hundred, freshbreads etc. etc. etc. Even if we hadnt been to the house then the shop would have made the visit worthwhile.

Last day and we moved the van round to the carpark so we could pop into the Chrstimas ayre, There were maybe 30-40 stalls but everyone sold beautiful handmade gifts such as ragdolls, knitted good, wooden toys and loads of chocolates and sweets. Really busy and an amazing atmosphere with carols playing in the background.

This must be one of the best weekends every – we will do this again for sure.

 

home via Mablethorpe & Hope Valley

Well a long day at Auto-trail and nothing much seems sorted. They think it no longer smells, we think it does. No more being said on the matter as it just causes stress.

We headed down the coast and decided to have a look for site Skegness way. Not much open at this time of year and what is really didn’t appeal to us. We struck lucky though finding an amazing little site just outside Mablethorpe. Arklow CL is the best CL to date. Immaculate, great big pitches and the best walk in showers ever. They restored our faith in the area.

From there we headed into the Peak district and Losehill CC site just outside Castleton. Another brilliant site, warm facilities when its freezing out are a godsend. We walked into Castleton and were so glad we did. Lovely little village with a few good shops, nice cafes and beautiful stone buildings. It was the absolute picture of how a Peaks village should look. We walked back along a footpath, managing to get a bit lost until we found the railway line and struggled back soaked for a roast dinner in the van.

Later on we drive up to Tideswell to see the Cathedral in the Peaks.

Spurn Point

We decided we need to see the sea today so head out towards Spurn Point. Find a lovely CL on the way in Easington. From there its a short drive down to Spurn Point. We managed to drive all the way down to the point and park up. Its cold but sunny and we walked the dunes and have a look at the lighthouse. There is a little hamlet of 6 or 7 cottages where the lifeboat men live. Suddenly they all come rushing out and dash along the pier to the lifeboat – then stop. We realised they were being filmed but didn’t quite manage to get into whatever film it was. As we were walking along the beach a baby seal came shuffling along the sand in front of us – not sure who was more shocked to see who between us.

After a bit of bird spotting we headed back up the point to find a site in Grimsby as we have an appointment at Auto-trail tomorrow.

Yorkshire and back with a smelly heater

We still have some teething problems with the hot water heater on the van. Basically it stinks like burning rubber whenever we heat water. So we have a date with the manufacturers at Auto-trail and thought we would make a short break out of the trip.

Set off this morning in the general direction of Yorkshire. By mid afternoon we were just outside Skipton and decided to find a camp for the night. We looked in CC book and found a CL site near Otterburn so headed for that. On arrival owners advised she was full! Bugger! We said only looking for one night so she said we could stay on the spare pitch. It’s on a farm pretty much in the middle of nowhere. Despite 5 other vans its so quiet its almost eerie.

In the morning we decided to head York direction. On route we spotted a farm shop, so ever hungry we pulled in for some fresh bread, fruit and veg. Could have spent a fortune on home-made cakes but we resisted, for now.

When we arrived in York we thought about giving the CC site a visit but knowing that it’s booked up months in advance didn’t hold out too much hope. Pulled to the the “Site Full” sign but being an optimist I ran in to treble check. Yes indeed said nice lady we can fit you in! Odd that but who are we to argue with a chance to stay there, Site is fairly big and right by the river, apparently it floods which is fly the ehu is 3ft off the ground. Great as its raining now! As we are pulling in we here someone shouting Iain? Look around and see Chris and Linda (more ex Tribby owners) parked up. So we plug in, put kettle on and sit and natter for a few hours.

Next morning still raining hard but brave York. The cathedral is aim one, disgusted they want £15 each to go in – skip that one. Wander the lanes and love all the tidily shops, its picture postcard perfect. After a nice lunch in a cellar bar we agree to try out the Railway Museum. That has to be the best museum ever. First its free – we love free. And I honestly wasn’t bored. Loads of trains but loads more such as the Royal train carriage etc. We spent 3 or 4 hours in there and could easily have spent more time – rated as our best museum to date on the Baxterbus scale.