Submarines – like No.7 buses

After the beautiful bleakness of Jutland it was a noticeable change in landscape on Funen (Fyn), Denmark’s garden island, being the middle of the three Danish regions or the ‘middle child’ of Denmark, best known for Odense and Hans Christian Andersen. Lots of wheat and barley fields, poppies and cornflowers around the edges of the fields it certainly earns it’s garden tag.

We crossed over from Jutland on the bridge at Middlefart (no way we were going there without mentioning it – childish but made us laugh 🙂 ).

We are now in prime holiday season – yet still everyone and everywhere seems very laid back. Holiday crowds don’t seem to exist so far, we hear Copenhagen will be busy but all along the coasts its been very quiet, the odd motorhome here and there, plenty of yachts along the coasts but very few cars – all good then.

Once on Fyn, Faaborg was our town of choice to visit, mainly because it has a marina, which equals a cheap stopover.  We hadn’t researched the town so were unsure what to expect, we needn’t have worried a typical Danish town, colourful houses lining paved roads. My favourite was the house with the boot hanging off the wall, no signs of it being a shop but would guess it was a boot makers in years gone by.

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Faaborg boot-makers, once upon a time?

Originally a  merchant’s town, the western gate at Vestergade was built around 1400 and is the only one, which has survived in Denmark.  The town was just a few minutes walk from the marina so we ambled away an afternoon around the shops.  Whilst there are very few empty shops there also seems to be very few shoppers around – the Danes like the outdoor life so we are guessing they are out and about on the water or in the countryside rather than in town.

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The last 15th century town gate in Denmark

Having visited Plokstine missile base in Lithuania and been on  a submarine in Holland I thought all my Christmas’s had come at once (not) when we found out there was a Cold War museum with more missile bases, nuclear bunkers and another submarine on the island of Langelands! As Iain is a sucker for some Cold War history we agreed to divert South and spend a day at Langeland Fort. At least another excuse for another incredible bridge,  this time a short one to a mini island called Sio, then the full 771 metres, 26 metres above the sea over to the island.

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Langeland Bridge

The fort is right on the Southern tip of the island, built in 1953 it was turned into a museum in 1997 when danger from the cold war was deemed over. The whole experience is one for kids (big and small) to clamber over and on massive naval guns, a decommissioned minesweeper, a submarine, two  MIG-23 air-planes and for those wanting the thrill of riding in a armoured personnel carrier the queues were forming to don a protective hat and career across a field for 10 minutes for £10. The submarine was way to hectic, kids were thundering around, that definitely makes you realise how cramped conditions were for people living on them.

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The main objective of the fort was to delay an attacking Soviet sea force and give NATO flights time to arrive. After touring the base and all the bunkers and fire power the final analysis showed that the most likely outcome of a Soviet attack was the fort would be rendered inoperative almost immediately – supposedly Soviet attack plans included dropping a tactical nuclear bomb on the fort.

For a few Kroner it was a cracking afternoon out, the museum even offered for us to stay for free overnight in their car-park. Had we done so it would have been probably the only time we had camped outside the Berlin Wall – a large section of the (imported original) wall is used as a boundary.

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the Berlin Wall in Denmark

The weather man seems to have got lucky with forecasts, we have had sunshine since Sunday. With this is mind we agreed to find somewhere to park up for a few days and enjoy some sun, the idea of traipsing through cities or tourist attractions seemed like too much hard work in the heat. We happened across Dagelokke, yet again another harbour but this one is a tiddler. A few houses, 20-30 boats, a cafe and all the facilities we need for a few days. Our friendly harbour master has offered us a free night if we stay for a few days, so we may take him up on that.

We treated ourselves to chips for tea from the harbour take-away last night and sat out on the wooden benches watching the world go by – as is often the case the best times are those with a bag of chips in hand!:) .

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Dagelokke harbour

Just up the road is the amazing Tranekaer Castle, built in the 13th century and seemingly as famous for the fact that one of the counts had over 100 illegitimate children as the castle itself. According to our harbour-master Queen Margrethe II stays at the castle several times a year, we are keeping an eye out just in case. It was too hot today to do much so we cycled to Lohals first thing for a wander around the village and then found the Queen’s bakers, so of course Iain treated himself to some royal cakes as it would have been rude not to! It’s now officially too hot to move and due to get hotter every day til Sunday, here comes summer :).

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Tranekaer Castle

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 ‘Bakeri’ with warrant to the Danish Queen and Welsh Iain 🙂

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13 thoughts on “Submarines – like No.7 buses

  1. Amazing weather, amazing finds and yet again, gets us wishing we were off trodling around in Marcus sightseeing (alas work still holds me).Middlefart? Tee hee, that would have us sniggering too 🙂 Denmark looks wonderful and we’ll have to be rethinking our hit France and head south plans if you carry on like this too much!

    Steve & Beverley

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    • we are blessed to have this weather here, Denmark is fab but even better in sunshine. It seems there is something to do or see in every town, could stay 6 months and not run out of things we want to see. Not sure this weather is going to last – storms on Sunday, would stick with France maybe 🙂

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    • We always think we won’t find anything to do or see – luckily we are always wrong! Wherever we go we try and get a local tourist magazine and usually find thing there. Yup, heading for more farts – the Danes love them, there are Din Farts every mile on roads 🙂

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  2. Did you ever use a BP station in Germany? They used to have a poster by the exit wishing you (or maybe telling you?) ‘Gute Fahrt’

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  3. We are in Copenhagen now, passed a sign yesterday saying “Fartkontrol”. I wondered whether it was the flatulence police? I haven’t been online much, been otherwise engaged having to look after three poodles – I might have missed your e-mail. If you want to meet up that would be great. Our plans are two days here then south somewhere on Zealand before bombing west towards France. Take care, Shaun and Jude

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    • Yes I did email – we are in Zealand now too, on a marina at Korsor just after the bridge tonight, tomorrow we are heading towards Copenhagen so may see you there. Think we are going for the City Camp – will let you know when we get there. Enjoy the sun before the storms arrive 🙂

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      • Hi, did you get to City Camp? We stayed outside the Carlsberg brewery on Wednesday and a picnic area north of the city last night, we’ll up sticks to City Camp if you’re there yet. Cheers, Shaun and Jude

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      • Yes we are on City Camp tonight and tomorrow night. Considering its €30 its very busy but very handy for the city. Hopefully see you both here over the weekend 🙂

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  4. We lingered in Langeland … spent two days cycling from Tran. castle and then in the south to see the wild ponies. Did not do the Cold War museum, other than to cycle past.
    If any one is using your blog to find sites … we ‘was robbed’ beside the Carlsberg factory when we cycled into the city for the day .. laptops, camera etc. According the the policeman ‘That was a right bag of shit!’ and it happens a lot there. I think the site may be known to thieves for potential pickings as it is mentioned on a lot of blogs. S and J: you woz lucky 🙂

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    • Sorry to hear you had problems. We used the City Camp which was very secure but you can never tell. Hope your travels are going well.

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